ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Sarah Burton looked to the underground world of fungi for Alexander McQueen’s fall/winter 2022 collection. Referencing the fungal network known as mycelium, the collection was also a rumination on the roots of the brand. Homages to Lee McQueen’s greatest hits were clear: Shalom Harlow’s iconic robotically spray-painted white dress from spring/ summer 1999 was reimagined as a print on an all-white power suit; whilst the intricate bodices of 1996’s “Dante” were reborn in the form of midi dresses. The allusion to psychedelia is curiously subtle, with acidic shades of marigold and flfluorescent chartreuse that could convert even the most stubborn colourphobe. And what of the atmosphere? Count on the British brand to deliver its brand of theatricality: The Cure’s 1980 track “A Forest” played in the background as models snaked between mounds of peat in a Brooklyn warehouse.