DOC TALK

Dr Karen Soh, med­i­cal di­rec­tor at Prive Aes­thet­ics, tells us how to step off a long-haul ight with fresh, dewy skin, and the right way to layer mul­ti­ple skin­care.

Herworld (Singapore) - - CONTENTS -

This month, Dr Karen Soh, med­i­cal di­rec­tor of Prive Aes­thet­ics, ex­plains the rules of multi-prod­uct lay­er­ing, cleans­ing de­vice us­age, and the skin­care you should pack on ights.

WIN­NING QUES­TION A re­cent trend is the South Korean 10-step skin­care rou­tine. Are there any ill ef­fects from ap­ply­ing too many prod­ucts on the skin, es­pe­cially if they are from dif­fer­ent brands? It’s not nec­es­sary to stick to one brand when lay­er­ing skin­care. What counts are the prod­ucts’ for­mu­las – whether they suit your skin type and ad­dress your con­cerns, as not ev­ery­thing from a brand will work on your skin.

That’s why I usu­ally tai­lor a skin­care regime for my pa­tients, se­lect­ing prod­ucts from dif­fer­ent ranges and even brands for the best ef­fi­cacy. The or­der in which you use them, how­ever, is im­por­tant, and the rule of thumb is to start with the light­weight prod­ucts first. But be­yond that, your skin can­not tell if you’re us­ing a toner from brand X af­ter a cleanser from brand Y. Fur­ther­more, there’s no re­search that shows skin suf­fers from us­ing prod­ucts from mul­ti­ple brands.

The ex­cep­tion to this is when prod­ucts have ac­tive in­gre­di­ents such as retinol, gly­colic acid, sal­i­cylic acid and pep­tides. Such prod­ucts are only tested for in­di­vid­ual per­for­mance and get­ting the wrong mix would ren­der your skin­care regime use­less or, in some in­stances, cre­ate ad­verse ef­fects such as skin sen­si­tiv­ity, break­outs, rashes and top­i­cal skin der­mati­tis.

One such ex­am­ple: cop­per pep­tides and top­i­cal vi­ta­min C. Both are pop­u­lar anti-age­ing in­gre­di­ents, but they coun­ter­act each other’s ef­fects. My ad­vice is to use one ac­tive in­gre­di­ent in the morn­ing to pro­tect the skin and an­other at night for re­pair. This reader wins a set of Prive Sk­in­works prod­ucts com­pris­ing White Light­en­ing Wash, worth $73.80, White Light­en­ing Toner, worth $73.80, and Triple Ac­tion Skin De­fence SPF50, worth $62. I’ve been us­ing a facial cleans­ing de­vice twice daily for two months, but my skin feels drier than be­fore and makeup seems to sink into my pores. Are both con­di­tions due to my us­age of the de­vice? – Teo Sing Yee Overus­ing a cleans­ing de­vice can lead to ex­ces­sive dry­ness, red­ness, ir­ri­ta­tion and bro­ken cap­il­lar­ies. For some skin types, even the mildest vi­bra­tions can be over­stim­u­lat­ing, es­pe­cially if the bris­tles are pressed too hard against the skin.

When the skin ex­pe­ri­ences trauma, it goes into re­pair and re­gen­er­a­tion mode. This can be ben­e­fi­cial, but over-ex­fo­li­at­ing can cause too much trauma, lead­ing to free-rad­i­cal dam­age and pre­ma­ture skin age­ing. You do not want to ex­fo­li­ate to the point of de­stroy­ing healthy skin cells.

Also, avoid us­ing the cleans­ing de­vice with a man­ual or chem­i­cal ex­fo­liant as that could be too harsh for your skin.

Makeup pool­ing in pores could be due to both dry and oily skin, with ex­cess oil break­ing down the foun­da­tion. Con­sult a doc­tor if nec­es­sary, as your skin could be oily yet ap­pear de­hy­drated. My skin al­ways gets very dry and itchy af­ter I dis­em­bark from a plane. What prod­ucts should I take in my carry-on to pre­vent my skin from look­ing parched when I reach my des­ti­na­tion? – Yeo Chiu Khim Pack along your reg­u­lar mois­turiser and a hy­drat­ing sleep­ing mask to tackle skin dry­ness. Be sure to ap­ply them on the eye area, neck and decol­letage too. For long-haul flights, I also ad­vise pack­ing some makeup re­mover wipes to keep skin clean and fresh.

Don’t for­get sun­screen, es­pe­cially if your flight is ex­pected to land dur­ing the day. On top of the el­e­men­tal pro­tec­tion against UVA and UVB rays, pick one with coen­zyme Q10, a nat­u­ral an­tiox­i­dant that coun­ters free rad­i­cals.

Lastly, bring along a sani­tiser to dis­in­fect your hands be­fore slather­ing on your facial prod­ucts. This is a good prac­tice that most peo­ple dis­re­gard; ba­si­cally, you’ll want to avoid trans­fer­ring bac­te­ria from your hands to your face. – Cas­san­dra Tjong

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