OCCLUSIVES
A good moisturiser will have at least two types of hydrators in order to balance the skin protective function and give comfort of use. – Dr Eileen Tan, dermatologist
What they are: Similar to emollients, occlusives also help prevent water loss from the skin; they work by forming a protective film over it, like a sealant. “Occlusives increase the water content of the skin by slowing the evaporation of water from the surface,” explains Dr Low. And while they might be similar to emollients, occlusives are usually the thickest lipids, which result in heavier and richer product textures.
Ingredients to look out for: Beeswax, mineral oil and even silicone derivatives like dimethicone. Emollients like squalene and jojoba oil can also work as occlusives. “These ingredients are often greasy and are most effective when applied to damp skin,” says Dr Low.
So, the big question: Which hydrating ingredient is better? Dr Low says that because skin types differ, there really isn’t one best ingredient.
Although, when it comes to choosing hydrators, there are some guidelines you can follow. “In my opinion, a good moisturiser will have at least two types of hydrators in order to balance the skin protective function and give comfort of use,” says Dr Tan. This too, depends on your skin’s needs.
For oilier and acne-prone skin: alphaor beta-hydroxy acids like glycolic, lactic and salicylic have both humectant and non-comedogenic properties, and can be integrated into your moisturiser. For drier skin: Look for a richer moisturiser that preferably contains two hydrators – a humectant, such as glycerine to attract water to the skin, and an emollient or occlusive like mineral oil to lock in moisture.
Don’t forget the environment you’re in too, whether it’s humid and hot, or dry and cold, says Dr Low.