Here’s what you need to know about the peptides in your skincare

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR Reading ingredient labels can be tricky if you don’t know what you’re looking for. “Look for words like ‘peptide’ or ‘palmitoyl’. Palmitoyl is a lipophilic derivative that is often incorporated with peptides as it stabilises the latter and enhances their absorption,” says Dr Kong.

THE TYPES OF PEPTIDES There are hundreds of different types of peptides available, each with a different benefit for the skin. According to Dr Kong, there are four classes: signal peptides (carnosine, palmitoyl peptides and some hexapeptides) to stimulate the production of proteins like collagen and elastin, enzyme peptides (rice silk and soybean peptides) to decrease enzyme activity that causes skin to age, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (pentapeptide-3 and -18, acetyl hexapeptide-3 and tripeptide-3) to lessen wrinkles by inhibiting muscle contraction, and carrier peptides (copper tripeptide and manganese tripeptide-1) to transport essential trace elements for proper cellular function.

BOOSTING THEIR EFFICACY Just like humans, peptides don’t work as well alone. For best combinations, Dr Kong recommends pairing peptides with other active ingredients, like antioxidants, niacinamide (vitamin B3) and hyaluronic acid, that can help brighten and hydrate skin. The only ingredient she says to steer clear of is alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) as they can reduce the efficacy of the peptides.