Are expensive skincare products worth the splurge?

Professor Kelly Dobos answers.

“While elaborate packaging may look luxurious, it can add a surprising amount to the cost without necessarily improving the formula,” she explains. There are exceptions, however, such as protective packaging like airless pumps that “increase the cost of a product”, she adds.

HERE ARE OTHER FACTORS TO CONSIDER ABOUT PRICEY SKINCARE:

Ingredients matter

“Proprietary ingredients can drive up the cost of a skincare product,” says Prof Dobos. “For example, argan oil, sourced only from Morocco, is labourintensive to prepare, leading to higher costs.” To gauge efficacy, look for products with claims backed by independent testing or clinical trials.

Concentration and potency

While prestige products may boast higher levels of active ingredients, Prof Dobos advises that more isn’t always better: “For example, retinol can be effective at levels as low as 0.1 per cent, and using too much can lead to irritation.”

To ensure that you’re getting the right ingredient potency for your skin, look for products that display the concentration of active ingredients, and always do a patch test before applying potentially irritating ingredients. Additionally, consult a dermatologist to determine the most suitable concentration for your skin type.

Texture and consistency

While expensive products may offer luxurious textures, Prof Dobos assures us that affordable products can achieve a similar feel. “Cosmetic chemists have a wide array of ingredients to work with, and can manipulate textures with more affordable materials,” she says. Everyone’s preferences can differ greatly when it comes to a skincare product’s texture and consistency, so consider testing a sample first to ensure that it meets your expectations.

Brand reputation vs efficacy

Brand reputation can play a significant role in perceived effectiveness, but Prof Dobos emphasises the importance of experience and commitment to quality. To determine a brand’s credibility, look for information on its history, commitment to quality, and any independent certifications, awards or reviews it may have received.

“It’s easy to get caught up in viral hype, but there are scientific sources, such as Cosmeticsinfo.org, that offer unbiased information,” she says.

Formulation significance

According to Prof Dobos, the formulation process is crucial for a product’s performance. “We carefully design products to maximise ingredient efficacy and stability throughout their shelf life,” she explains. Go for reputable brands that prioritise research and development. Additionally, check for products that undergo third-party testing or clinical trials to validate their claims.

Affordable alternatives

Affordable skincare options can be just as effective as their more expensive counterparts. “Some large companies like Shiseido and L’Oreal have multiple brands across the cost spectrum, all sharing a commitment to quality and efficacy,” she says. So, while expensive skincare products may offer some unique benefits (and bragging rights), it’s essential to weigh the cost against the actual benefits they provide. With a bit of research and a discerning eye, you can find affordable alternatives that deliver similar results.

Of course, some pricey products can definitely be worth the splurge too, if they tick all the right boxes. Look beyond the price tag and hype, and focus on the ingredients and formulation to find the best product for your skin.

Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist and adjunct professor of cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati.

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