MOUNTAIN MAJESTY
Canadian luxury in Whistler
From the peak of Whistler Mountain, the world is an extraordinary place. A 360 ° panorama presents manicured pistes and wild virgin slopes that glitter against a vast bluebird sky, set to the tune of excited skiers and snowboarders primed for exploring the terrain. I might be on top of the world, but I’m definitely not on top of my game.
First day nerves firing up after a three-year hiatus from the mountains, I’m gulping down the crisp air wishing it was a stiff drink and doing my best to remember what exactly it is I like so much about chucking my body down mountains.
Fortunately, the dizzying view distracts me long enough to get strapped into my board and, after some warm encouragement from
our guide, I nose over the precipice and bomb – ok, squeak – down the first run of the day. You could spend a lifetime on Whistler Blackcomb and never get bored.
Open spaces
Formerly two separate mountains, this huge resort is considered the largest ski area in North America, offering more than 16 alpine bowls, three glaciers, 200 trails, 8,171 acres of skiable terrain and a one-mile vertical rise, all accessible with the Epic Pass, starting at USD 125 per day. Not only does this mean there is serious freedom to roam, but it also ensures that little time is wasted queuing for lifts. Additionally, with so much space, mid-week the slopes feel virtually deserted, so there’s none of the
jostling so typical of smaller European resorts – a relief if you’re still finding your ski legs.
A ticketed service called Fresh Tracks has also been launched, which gives early birds the chance to be first on the slopes, with a 7.15am gondola up Whistler mountain, inclusive of a hearty buffet breakfast at the Roundhouse – it’s well worth the early alarm call.
The pistes are expertly managed and always improving (owner Vail Resorts has recently invested CAD 66 million on new chairlifts) and I’m struck by how friendly everyone is. From the lift staff to fellow skiers and boarders, this is a good-vibes only kind of place.
Year-round
With this in mind, it’s no surprise that Whistler is consistently voted top of skiers’ dream destinations. However, Canada’s premier winter sports destination must also be one of the most beautiful.
A year-round town with a heartbeat of its own, Whistler Village feels like a supersized Alpine resort, with attractive architecture set on a myriad of labyrinthine stone pathways. In fact, I’m told many Canadians feel as if they have more in common with Europeans than their American neighbours; there’s certainly a je ne sais quoi in the air. A wander around the pedestrianized centre, as après-hour hits, reveals stylish shopping, plenty of people-watching opportunities from open-air patios, and restaurants galore serving everything from sushi and tacos to steak and waffles.
Two-hours drive north of Vancouver and four hours from Seattle, it’s a cosmopolitan, moneyed resort, attracting a weekend crowd as well as international holidaymakers with highend lodging and amenities.
We’re at the Four Seasons, a magnificent property that expertly manages both the practical and luxurious aspects of a ski break. A visit to the in-house ski concierge arranges equipment hire in under 10 minutes, and there’s a twinned centre in the village to deposit your boots and board after the last ride of the day. The hotel is dreamy, with mountain, valley and forest views, rich, rustic décor and fabulous dining at SideCut, a grill that showcases the cream of local produce, from oysters to Angus reserve beef.
Broken but beaming after day one, my needs are basic and after a soak in the spa’s alfresco hot tub, I couldn’t be happier, snuggling up next to the fireplace in my suite. However, guests with more discerning requirements are promised unrivalled service: over the years the hotel has arranged everything from a bespoke room makeover to a trio of red Lamborghinis for its clients.
Outside of the hotel, imaginative options for exploring the area abound, with Whistler offering masses of alternative activities to tempt skiers off the slopes. First up is some prime ‘me time’ at the decadent Scandinave Spa. A series of outdoor hydrotherapy pools, saunas and steam rooms built into rocks cascade gently down a bank, with views of the mountains beyond. This journey through relaxation is fabulous and I spend a couple of tranquil hours soaking up the scene before readying for the next adventure:
a twilight ski-doo ride through the Callaghan backcountry. Never ski-dooed? No problem. Extra layers of cosy gear are provided to keep warm, plus clear instruction and a few practice laps to get your eye in. Despite the enthusiasm of the team, I’m in the mood for being driven and hop on the back of my friend’s motor instead. As dusk turns to night we follow a trail through the wilderness to Sproatt Lodge, a rustic cabin glowing like a beacon in the dark on the deserted mountain. It’s a magical experience, and the setting for an epic three-course Canadian steak dinner, all cooked on an old-fashioned wood stove and grill. An exceptional evening, this is a must-do, the perfect combination of food and adventure, two things intrinsic to a stay in Whistler.
Glorious food
Indeed, fine dining is one of the elements that make this destination unique, with excellent eating on and off the mountains. Christine’s, at the top of the new Blackcomb Gondola, is a great shout for lunch, serving an eclectic and unusual fusion menu of dishes such as hamachi with white soy, truffle, pickled shimeji and apple, and a cracking fish curry, while the easy-going elegant vibe of the Bearfoot Bistro is a guaranteed crowd pleaser. A legendary spot, it offers a signature tasting menu with paired Canadian wines (who knew) and a chance to try champagne ‘sabering’ in the wine cellar, rounded off with a sub-zero vodka digestif in the Ketel One Ice Room – the first of its kind in Canada. You’ll need to put the hours in on the slopes to work off the damage to your waistline, but with food this good, who cares?
After a few days working on my confidence and technique, it’s time for the appointment that’s been gnawing at me, even before I left for Canada: an off-piste helicopter excursion. Not for the feint of heart, as we pull up to basecamp, it’s fair to say I’m terrified. However, I couldn’t be in safer hands, with expert instruction provided at every turn – alongside a superb packed lunch, served mountainside. Concise safety briefing over, we pile into a chopper and buzz over miles of sparkling, virgin snow to the optimum spot as selected each day by the guides. It’s breathtakingly beautiful and the ultimate culmination to a Whistler experience, a resort that really has it all. Heart in my boots, as we touch ground to the repetitive roar of the propeller, reality hits: the only way is down.