Retro Jump Start
Like the tourbillon, complications such as jumping hours and retrograde hands aren’t exactly the most useful functions. In fact, under the actual definition of a complication, they don’t count since they fall under telling time. However, like the tourbillon as well, these heritage complications pay tribute to an era of watchmaking that pushed boundaries and actually innovated. The jumping hour was first developed in 1882 by Josef Pallweber, who fashioned a digital display for pocket watches that used numbers on rotating disks in addition to classic pointers, similar to how most of our date discs look now. The retrograde display, on the other hand, was used by master watchmaker himself Abraham-louis Breguet to showcase functions like the date or the equation of time. While normal hands travel a complete 360°,retrograde displays sweep only a segment of that circle before jumping back to the start and going through the sweep again. To us, the two ways of showing time might not be ground-breaking but one thing is sure – it’s absolute poetry in motion watching your seconds hand jump every so often.
Hautlence vortex primary
It may look like an artsy watch with the 19 stained glass panels covering it from every angle but we all know Hautlence isn’t about that. The brand’s technical mastery surfaces in the impressive HL R 2.0 calibre with iconic tank-thread hours on the left and a retrograde minute scale upfront and centre.
Louis moinet 20-second tempograph
The appeal of Louis Moinet watches lies in the contrasting aesthetic. While the dial at four o’clock is reminiscent of vintage marine chronometers, the rest of the watch is contemporarily made and finished. The best part is the retrograde seconds hand at two o’clock, jumping back every third of a minute.
Chanel monsieur de chanel
Chanel’s first dedicated men’s watch knocked it out of the park this year and it’s safe to assume we weren’t the only ones surprised. Completely made in-house with help from Romain Gauthier, it has a jumping hour display, a patented retrograde minute display (for the wide angle) and a three-day power reserve.
Chronoswiss sirius flying regulator jumping hour
We’ve always been fans of Chronoswiss’ regulators but this year’s version with the jumping hour display and raised sub-dials ranks up there among the brand’s best. Executed in contemporary colours and with great finishing, the collection of six also sees red gold versions and ones in black DLC steel.
Ulysse nardin marine tourbillon grand deck
There aren’t many features in a timepiece that can eclipse a tourbillon but Ulysse Nardin’s novelty this year sees to that. The stars of the show are the series of nanowires pulling the blued-aluminium retrograde hand along its axis, inspired by a ship’s boom. The movement is absolutely mesmerising.