In the Mood for Gold

As the lines be­tween ca­sual style, ac­tive life­styles, and tra­di­tional lux­ury have blurred and given birth to cat­e­gories such as ‘ath­leisure’ and ‘sports lux­ury’, it’s easy to for­get the noble na­ture, and high in­trin­sic value of gold


As the lines be­tween ca­sual style, ac­tive life­style, and tra­di­tional lux­ury have been blurred and given birth to cat­e­gories like ‘ath­leisure’ and ‘sports lux­ury’, it’s easy to for­get the noble na­ture and high in­trin­sic value of gold

While many have sim­ply taken a chunky sports watch and re­leased a gold ver­sion of it to cap­ture a seg­ment of the mar­ket, let us fo­cus on a few pieces where gold is an in­te­gral part of the aes­thetic, and, in these cases, rose or red gold, for the per­fect bal­ance of warmth, mag­nif­i­cence and el­e­gance.

Ja­quet Droz Trop­i­cal Bird Re­peater

For a truly ex­otic wrist­watch fit­ting to be en­cased in gold, look no fur­ther than the Ja­quet Droz Trop­i­cal Bird Re­peater, a sub­lime ex­am­ple of the per­fect ren­dezvous of imag­i­na­tion, artis­tic so­phis­ti­ca­tion and high-end watch­mak­ing. The piece de­picts an ul­tra-re­al­is­tic rain­for­est on dial, com­plete with a wa­ter­fall among bloom­ing trop­i­cal flora and fauna. A cel­e­bra­tion of ‘au­tom­ata’ – mov­ing me­chan­i­cal de­vices that im­i­tate life, a flurry of ac­tiv­ity springs into ac­tion once the minute re­peater is ac­ti­vated. Among them, the hum­ming bird in the cen­ter of the dial beats its wings up to 40 times per sec­ond, the pea­cock opens its tail, and drag­on­flies dance. All in there are seven in­de­pen­dent an­i­ma­tions that al­low for up to 120 dif­fer­ent sce­nar­ios, an as­ton­ish­ing feat con­sid­er­ing this is purely me­chan­i­cal. Be­yond the ex­quis­ite an­i­ma­tions, at the heart is one of the grand­est horo­log­i­cal com­pli­ca­tions, the minute re­peater. The new Ja­quet Droz RMA89 move­ment pow­ers the time­keep­ing, as well as the re­peater func­tions, ac­ti­vated by a push-piece. Hand-en­graved dec­o­ra­tions adorn the 47mm 18k red gold case that houses this masterpiece. Only for the most as­tute of col­lec­tors, the Ja­quet Droz Trop­i­cal Bird Re­peater is lim­ited to only eight num­bered pieces world­wide.

Mont­blanc Star Legacy Sus­pended Exo Tour­bil­lon Lim­ited Edi­tion 58

Re­leased at SIHH 2018, the Mont­blanc Star Legacy Sus­pended Exo Tour­bil­lon Lim­ited Edi­tion 58 is a show­case of Mont­blanc’s mas­tery of a clas­sic and tra­di­tional ar­ti­sanal aes­thetic while push­ing the bound­aries of fine watch­mak­ing. De­vel­oped en­tirely in-house by the mas­ter watch­mak­ers at the Mont­blanc Man­u­fac­ture in Villeret, the time­piece needed three years of de­sign and de­vel­op­ment be­fore it was ready to be shown to the world. The dis­tinc­tive patented Sus­pended Ex­oTour­bil­lon fea­tures an ex­tra large bal­ance wheel that is raised above the dial via a stain­less steel arm and ap­pears to float above. The soli­tary arm rep­re­sents a mas­sive horo­log­i­cal chal­lenge that re­quired skill and dex­ter­ity to man­u­fac­ture. The con­struc­tion of this re­quired the bal­ance to be per­fectly per­pen­dic­u­lar to the move­ment – no small feat when things are mea­sured in mi­crons. With such a high level of ad­vanced crafts­man­ship put into the watch, it is de­serv­ingly paired with a sub­stan­tial 18k red gold case. The beau­ti­ful hue of red gold glows through the watch via a sap­phire crys­tal case back that al­lows an un­com­pro­mised view of the handfin­ished move­ment and EXO Tour­bil­lon from the back. The man­u­fac­ture move­ment cal­iber MB M16.68 is en­tirely hand with Côtes de Genève stripes, cir­cu­lar grain­ing, and a mir­ror­pol­ished pawl with the famed Min­erva ar­row. The man­u­ally wound move­ment pow­ers the tour­bil­lon and tim­ing func­tions with el­e­gance and pre­ci­sion. This ex­clu­sive watch is lim­ited to 58 pieces world­wide, pay­ing trib­ute to the year Mont­blanc Man­u­fac­ture was founded in Villeret in 1858, and is cer­ti­fied by the Mont­blanc Lab­o­ra­tory Test 500.

Patek Philippe ref. 7150/250R-001 Ladies Chrono­graph

De­signed for the highly dis­cern­ing woman who ap­pre­ci­ates a finely crafted piece of me­chan­i­cal art, Patek Philippe has re­leased a new man­u­ally wound ladies’ chrono­graph. In no way a sim­ple down­siz­ing of a larger model for fem­i­nine pro­por­tions, this new watch is el­e­gant and a per­fect fit for the mod­ern woman. Crafted from 18k rose gold, the round 38mm case fea­tures a bezel set with 72 diamonds that sur­round a sil­ver toned opa­line dial with clas­sic aes­thet­ics, fea­tur­ing sculpted Breguet hour and minute hands also pre­sented in rose gold. The sleek de­sign is em­pha­sized by re­fined vin­tage-styled de­tails such as the fluted and curved strap lugs, round chrono­graph push­ers with man­u­ally guil­loched faces and a gen­tly cam­bered sap­phire-crys­tal “box” glass. Way more than just a pretty face, the case houses the man­u­ally wound masterpiece of a move­ment. The Patek Philippe cal­iber CH 29-535 PS fea­tures an in­stan­ta­neous 30-minute counter and com­bines its clas­sic ar­chi­tec­ture with to­day’s pre­ci­sion and tech­nol­ogy. The lav­ish dec­o­ra­tions on the move­ment can be ad­mired through the sap­phire-crys­tal case back that is also slightly cham­fered to meld per­fectly with the pro­file of the rear bezel. The only chrono­graph in the Patek Philippe watch col­lec­tion for ladies, the Ref. 7150/250R-001 is worn on a shiny mink gray al­li­ga­tor leather strap paired with a rose-gold prong buckle that is also adorned with 27 bril­liant diamonds.

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