Bhutan Beckons
While still mostly closed off to the world, Bhutan doesn’t hesitate to open up to you once you’re there
Flying into Bhutan calls to mind scenes from Hollywood movies where the protagonist arrives at a fictional location like Wakanda in Black Panther or perhaps Themyscira in Wonder Woman. While on the Drukair flight, I immediately knew that we are approaching the Land of the Thunder Dragon because the cabin lights were dimmed, traditional Bhutanese music started playing, and all of a sudden, the small aircraft skillfully maneuvered through a breathtaking, but dangerous, Himalayan mountainscape. It’s dramatic, for sure, especially since landing in Paro airport is considered to be one of the most difficult in the world – just ask the eight pilots who are qualified to land there. Once we disembarked and breezed through customs, it soon became clear why Bhutan has a reputation of being one of the happiest countries in the world: Everywhere you look is a picture-perfect postcard view, with colorful traditional Bhutanese homes dotting the mountainside, towering trees all around, a roaring river nearby, and some of the bluest skies you’ll ever see.
HIGH VALUE, LOW IMPACT TOURISM
With the wonders of nature in abundance, coupled with comfortable alpine temperatures, even in the middle of summer, and the fact that it is one of the few carbon neutral countries in the world, Bhutan has a lot going on for it that the rest of the world has yet to discover. In order to maintain its almost untouched nature, a “High Value, Low Impact” tourism policy has been set in place ever since the country opened up to tourism in 1974. With daily tariffs and surcharges applicable per person, as well as visa requirements, the small country with a population of about 750,000 is able to maintain a level of quality tourism that benefits the country in more ways than one. In addition to the development of the country’s tourism industry, tourist dollars also goes back to the people in the form of free education, healthcare, and more.
AT ONCE FOREIGN AND FAMILIAR
One of the first questions I asked our knowledgeable Druk Asia guide, Mr. Passang Dorji, on the drive to the capital Thimphu was if there were any overseas fast food chains around. “There are none,” he said. I prodded further. “KFC? McDonalds? Maybe Starbucks?” The answer was still no. But it all made sense in the end because when you have access to organic produce coming from all corners of the country, which we saw at the colorful Centenary Farmers’ Market, processed and instant food suddenly loses its appeal. Now if you’re starting to think that Bhutan is far removed from how the rest of the world is, it isn’t. Just like everybody else, the Bhutanese also scroll through their iPhones, follow the latest Netflix series, and wear outfits beyond the traditional Gho and Kira (I saw a teenager wearing an Anti Social Social Club tee once). A chance encounter with Wangchuk, a monk at the Tashichhodzong (The Fortress of Glorious Religion) in Thimphu, proved this further because once we reached his room for a spot of tea, I spied a tablet on his bed. And in other dzongs across the country, a lot of the younger monks would busy themselves with their smartphones in between lessons and prayer sessions. Top row: Prayer wheels on the way to Tiger’s Nest Bottom row: Wangchuk, a monk we met at the Tashichhodzong
Despite all these trappings of the modern world, there are still many things about Bhutan that will spark your curiosity. There is a sense of calm wherever you go, what with all the prayer wheels and flags, simultaneously sending up prayers and well wishes to the heavens every time they’re spun or dance in the wind. Regular gatherings for a casual or competitive round of archery, which is the country’s national sport. The absence of traffic lights, the unique flora and fauna, the interesting food items sold along zigzagging roads, the obsession with chili and cheese, and other cultural nuances that delight and confuse, as they should. Finally, the people make an equally positive impression the same way Bhutan’s picturesque landscape does. Their excellent command of English ensures nothing is lost in translation, while their ever-ready smiles will make you feel welcome wherever you go. They are curious about you and where you’re from, the same way you’re curious about them and their beautiful country. They ask, they share, and are always willing to pose for a photo knowing that they each play an important role in representing their country