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The lockdown gave jewelry designer Yasmin Tjoeng an opportunity to extend custom design services to her existing clients

At Raffles Design Institute Singapore, Yasmin Tjoeng learned how to design jewelry on paper with maquettes and manipulate metal and set stones on them. These primary instructions served her well as she developed her style, and later on, her brand of luxury artisanal jewelry. “Silversmithing and setting gemstones are so important,” she surmises, “as being a good designer also means having a strong understanding of the construction and technicality of a piece.”

The technicality she speaks of is articulated in her collections. They consist of immaculate designs that are reminiscent of both ancient and vintage jewelry with a contemporary air. “We were also taught to begin a design with an inspiration and a concept – these two together lend to much more interesting designs being created. All of these skills I learned in art school, I still apply to my designs today.”

Jewelry design was not the first artistic endeavor that Tjoeng tried her hands on. She started as a commerce and architectural interior design student. Today, as she looks back, she feels she has not wasted her time, however. “All of (those) helped me in my journey in becoming an independent jewelry designer, both in running a design business and approaching jewelry from an architectural mindset.”

We caught up with Tjoeng as she emerges from the circuit breaker, which she spent exploring her brand's strengths and finding out what she could do on her own terms.

There were other avenues open to you as a creative person, but why did you decide to pursue jewelry design? Who or what inspired you to become a jeweler?

I have always loved jewelry. It has been a passion of mine from a young age. I used to play with my mother’s and grandmother’s jewelry and flip through old Hollywood books, admiring all the beautiful pieces worn by the film stars.

However, it wasn’t until a trip to Paris in my mid-20s where I met a jewelry designer, and it clicked – that it’s what I wanted to do. So, I took the plunge and enrolled to study jewelry design. While I was studying, I had a clear vision of my future in this industry and what direction I wanted my career to go. Having confidence in one’s vision is key in this industry.

You have been diligent and prolific — how many collections have you launched to date?

I have created ten collections for Maison Tjoeng, plus six or seven large statement wearable art pieces, which I made from silver and finished in platinum gold. They are sculptural pieces of art, each one unique and entirely handcrafted. Each piece takes roughly six

During the lockdown, I focused on providing personalized and bespoke design services. I also delayed the release of new collections.

or seven weeks to complete. As the inspiration comes to me, I create these pieces as the inspiration comes to me, normally as standalone pieces, but like the fine jewelry lines, are available to order. The fine jewelry collections I have made are Boheme, Composition, Azteca, Lazarus, Pacific Moons, Selene, Meridian, Tulum, and, most recently, Maar.

How would you characterize your aesthetic?

Timeless with a contemporary twist, which I like to refer to as ‘New Classics'. All my pieces are solid, strong yet sensual and organic. I like to design for contemporary women and men looking for bold and artistic pieces that are crafted to the highest standard.

While designing, I hold in mind the complexity of modern-day existence – we are told we can be whatever we want to be, yet dated societal norms and expectations hold us back. We are a dichotomy of strength and tenderness, empathy and unwavering personal convictions, forward-thinking, and trying to be present.

I try to distill all these elements in my pieces, hoping that people can see them. I want my clients to feel confident and empowered to be themselves when they are wearing my designs.

You ventured out doing your own label, while many of your contemporaries worked as interns or designers for other labels. What are the advantages of running an independent brand?

There are many advantages in being an independant brand, but There are many advantages to being an independent brand, but I value having complete creative control the most. I don't design Maison Tjoeng collections according to trends. As the designer and owner of my brand, I don't have internal pressures from a parent company to change a design or make pieces because something is currently popular.

I also cherish being able to make creative decisions in other aspects of the business, from campaign shoots and videos to branding and display designs. Being a smaller design house means that I can work closely with other independent creatives, such as photographers, stylists, makeup artists, and graphic designers, and be a part of a jewelry community.

This year has also shown that being an independent brand means having flexibility over difficult times. During the lockdown, I was able to focus on providing personalized and bespoke design services. I was also able to delay the release of new collections until I felt the time was right.

Social media has also been so important during this time that being able to connect personally with clientele and being a part of the conversation is essential for businesses now. Being a luxury brand, I was keenly aware of not coming across as tone-deaf but rather in tune with the world's latest current events.

What tough challenges do you face as a jewelry designer today?

The fine jewelry industry is very competitive; there are many existing independent designers, and more are entering the market. With so many designers making beautiful creations, it can be difficult to stand out.

As fast fashion dominates the industry and consumers remain inclined to buy whatever is on-trend, fine jewelry has to compete with demi-fine and costume jewelry, which is more accessible to consumers. I have found that being true to my brand aesthetic, maintaining a clear voice, and making no compromises for quality have enabled me to find my right place within the industry.

What’s the dream, and how do you plan to get there?

The dream for Maison Tjoeng is to grow regionally and internationally and eventually be synonymous with fine jewelry as wearable art. I would love to have physical spaces that function as galleries-cum-jewelry boutiques, where I can tell my brand's story as an experience.