Prestige (Singapore) - - JEWELLERY -

For his Tif­fany & Co. jewellery de­but, Krakoff picked a flo­ral mo­tif to con­nect Pa­per Flow­ers to the brand’s decades-long as­so­ci­a­tion with na­ture. Start­ing with Louis Com­fort Tif­fany’s stained glass win­dows and mo­saics de­pict­ing bu­colic idyll and his art nou­veau– in­spired jewellery, “the flo­ral mo­tif is some­thing that has been part of ev­ery decade (at Tif­fany & Co.), so it felt like a good place to start,” Krakoff ex­plains. “In start­ing with some­thing that’s recog­nis­able as Tif­fany, the idea al­lows you to do some­thing quite dif­fer­ent.” (The iris is also a key note of Tif­fany & Co. EDP un­veiled last Septem­ber.) An­other goal of Pa­per Flow­ers

was to play up the con­trast be­tween or­ganic and in­dus­trial, to in­tro­duce op­pos­ing ideas and cre­ate the ten­sion sig­na­ture of Krakoff’s de­signs: A rivet at the cen­tre holds to­gether a trio of ar­ti­sanally crafted plat­inum petals to show­case the syn­ergy be­tween these seem­ingly an­ti­thet­i­cal con­cepts. The col­lec­tion em­bod­ies Krakoff’s quest for a fresh ap­proach to wear­ing jewellery, and to em­pha­sise that di­a­monds and plat­inum can be part of one’s ev­ery­day en­sem­ble.

To drive home this point, the Pa­per Flow­ers pre­sen­ta­tion was held at the Asia So­ci­ety Hong Kong Cen­ter, within a life-sized re­cre­ation of the ster­ling sil­ver green­house from Tif­fany & Co. Ev­ery­day Ob­jects col­lec­tion. Both high and fine jewellery were dis­played among items from Krakoff’s late-2017 Home & Ac­ces­sories line-up of quo­tid­ian or­na­ments crafted from ster­ling sil­ver — flower pots, cof­fee cans, mag­ni­fy­ing glass pa­per­weights, and oth­ers — along with quaint re­minders of gar­den­ing and pas­toral land­scapes to re­in­force the con­nec­tion be­tween Pa­per Flow­ers, na­ture as well as ev­ery­day liv­ing.

“I think that’s some­thing that’s part of my DNA and very much part of Tif­fany’s DNA: Lux­ury is meant to be used, so it’s not about putting some­thing in a safe or cup­board,” Krakoff ex­plains, re­it­er­at­ing his phi­los­o­phy that lux­ury is in­de­pen­dent of for­mal­ity. “That’s what makes Tif­fany high jewellery very dif­fer­ent — all pieces are meant to be worn [in reg­u­lar set­tings as well as on spe­cial oc­ca­sions]… so that ca­su­al­ness and youth­ful­ness is some­thing re­ally im­por­tant.”

Bring­ing these con­cepts to life is a Be­lieve in Dreams cam­paign that aired this May. In it, a fresh-faced Elle Fan­ning ad­mires a Tif­fany & Co. win­dow dis­play, like Holly Go­lightly in 1961. Then, she is whisked away into a phan­tas­magor­i­cal dream­scape bathed in robin’s-egg blue for a dance rou­tine set to a remix of “Moon River” (with a rap by A$AP Ferg). Again, the jux­ta­po­si­tion of con­tra­dic­tory no­tions is ap­par­ent. “You have some­thing quite ro­man­tic and nos­tal­gic, and you have a mu­si­cian who is quite dif­fer­ent, and a crazy story with peo­ple flying through the air,” Krakoff says. “I have a big ap­pre­ci­a­tion for this kind of crazy, funny, quirky [spec­ta­cle], be­cause it’s en­ter­tain­ing and also sur­pris­ing from Tif­fany.” The ad cam­paign was ac­com­pa­nied by a phys­i­cal takeover of New York City with skate­board­ers, cof­fee carts, cabs, sub­way sta­tions and bode­gas all decked out in Tif­fany Blue.

Krakoff would have an ap­petite for such dis­plays: This three-time CFDA Award win­ner has been tasked with di­rect­ing de­sign for Tif­fany & Co. jewellery and lux­ury ac­ces­sories, and lead­ing the brand’s over­ar­ch­ing artis­tic and de­sign vi­sion with re­spect to stores, e-com­merce, mar­ket­ing and advertising. Co­he­sion among all com­po­nents is crit­i­cal. “You can’t tell a con­vinc­ing story if one per­son is de­sign­ing jewellery, one per­son’s do­ing the advertising, and an­other per­son do­ing the win­dow [dis­plays],” Krakoff says. “Ev­ery­one sees ev­ery­thing 24/7 now, so you need to have a clear, crisp, com­mit­ted mes­sage… with each piece build­ing on the next.”

Since join­ing Tif­fany & Co. in Fe­bru­ary 2017, Krakoff has had a lot on his to-do list. The man cred­ited with send­ing Coach’s rev­enue soar­ing ten­fold to US$5 bil­lion was brought in to boost Tif­fany & Co.’s fortunes and re­fresh its im­age. The brand has gone from re­port­ing a drop in com­pa­ra­ble sales last May to post­ing 7-per­cent growth in first fis­cal quar­ter same-store sales af­ter 12 months. Krakoff is clearly onto some­thing. Credit has been at­trib­uted in part to the witty Home & Ac­ces­sories col­lec­tion. And to cap­i­talise on the mo­men­tum, the brand launched a jewellery de­sign and in­no­va­tion work­shop in Man­hat­tan in April to speed up the roll­out of prod­ucts.

In swap­ping Givenchy’s black evening gown for a Tif­fany Blue hoodie (which Fan­ning donned in the ad cam­paign) and run­ning an uber-in­sta­grammable launch party for Pa­per Flow­ers, has the brand dis­tanced it­self from long­time fans more ac­cus­tomed to its im­age of clas­sic Amer­i­can pol­ish, el­e­gance and moder­nity? “I think that’s al­ways the ques­tion,” Krakoff muses aloud. “The re­al­ity is, brands have to evolve, al­ways.”

“There will al­ways be some­one who might want some­thing a brand used to do. But my job is to make the fu­ture and the new chap­ter so ex­cit­ing, that peo­ple who may be more [tra­di­tional-minded] are ex­cited to take a step for­ward.”

“Lux­ury is meant to be used, so it’s not about putting some­thing in a safe or cup­board”


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