Prestige (Singapore) - - FASHION -

As a culture shift re­newed the drive for fur-free poli­cies, Karl Lager­feld played guess­ing games with this col­lec­tion. The cre­ative di­rec­tor took the ate­lier’s il­lus­tri­ous savoir faire up the hilt by turn­ing the spot­light on other ma­te­ri­als such as cash­mere, del­i­cate cro­chets, spi­der­web-light lace and marabou feathers, while he spear­headed a new gen­er­a­tion of in­no­va­tions to sim­u­late fur, the very ma­te­rial Fendi built its rep­u­ta­tion on.

“The story of Fendi starts from a small fur (and leather goods) ate­lier but now it’s not only about fur. Fur is just one ma­te­rial we use with other ones and we use it to in­no­vate — you can­not even see where it is,” Lager­feld pointed out.

“At Fendi, noth­ing is what it seems. There is al­ways a kind of sur­prise ef­fect. Who can guess that? No­body I think,” Sil­via Ven­turini Fendi added. “I re­ally love the red dress be­cause half of the dress is made of mink and half is made of fab­ric and you don’t know which half is made of what. You re­ally can­not per­ceive the dif­fer­ence… Ev­ery­body could think this is a plain fur coat but, in re­al­ity, is vel­vet. This is real cou­ture”.

Drop­ping the four­rure term this sea­son in favour of cou­ture how­ever, did not elim­i­nate fur to­tally — mink, sable, Mon­go­lian lamb and er­mine were still part of Fendi’s new of­fer­ings.

Oth­er­wise, the col­lec­tion ex­uded a lighter, ethe­real feel thanks to di­aphanous fab­rics such as chif­fon, tulle and or­ganza in a pal­ette of soft hues span­ning apri­cot, laven­der and sher­bet.

THE OPENER Fendi made it fun this sea­son by mak­ing you guess which was real fur. The ate­lier’s in­ge­nious tech­niques treated non-fur ma­te­ri­als in such amaz­ing ways you could barely tell the dif­fer­ence, and Lager­feld made sure to im­press that fact with the first look. Nar­row strips of chif­fon were frayed and stitched to­gether so densely that the mul­ti­coloured coat re­sem­bled mink in­tar­sia.

THE BAG At Fendi, ac­ces­sories were not sup­port­ing play­ers to the cou­ture cre­ations. Just as amaz­ing, high-fre­quency print­ing pro­duced wristlets em­bossed in glossy lay­ers of ther­mo­plas­tic to mimic mar­ble, mala­chite and mother-of-pearl in strik­ing graphic de­signs, el­e­vated with be­jew­elled touches.



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