As a culture shift renewed the drive for fur-free policies, Karl Lagerfeld played guessing games with this collection. The creative director took the atelier’s illustrious savoir faire up the hilt by turning the spotlight on other materials such as cashmere, delicate crochets, spiderweb-light lace and marabou feathers, while he spearheaded a new generation of innovations to simulate fur, the very material Fendi built its reputation on.
“The story of Fendi starts from a small fur (and leather goods) atelier but now it’s not only about fur. Fur is just one material we use with other ones and we use it to innovate — you cannot even see where it is,” Lagerfeld pointed out.
“At Fendi, nothing is what it seems. There is always a kind of surprise effect. Who can guess that? Nobody I think,” Silvia Venturini Fendi added. “I really love the red dress because half of the dress is made of mink and half is made of fabric and you don’t know which half is made of what. You really cannot perceive the difference… Everybody could think this is a plain fur coat but, in reality, is velvet. This is real couture”.
Dropping the fourrure term this season in favour of couture however, did not eliminate fur totally — mink, sable, Mongolian lamb and ermine were still part of Fendi’s new offerings.
Otherwise, the collection exuded a lighter, ethereal feel thanks to diaphanous fabrics such as chiffon, tulle and organza in a palette of soft hues spanning apricot, lavender and sherbet.
THE OPENER Fendi made it fun this season by making you guess which was real fur. The atelier’s ingenious techniques treated non-fur materials in such amazing ways you could barely tell the difference, and Lagerfeld made sure to impress that fact with the first look. Narrow strips of chiffon were frayed and stitched together so densely that the multicoloured coat resembled mink intarsia.
THE BAG At Fendi, accessories were not supporting players to the couture creations. Just as amazing, high-frequency printing produced wristlets embossed in glossy layers of thermoplastic to mimic marble, malachite and mother-of-pearl in striking graphic designs, elevated with bejewelled touches.
JESSICA JUNG MANDY MOORE
AIMEE SUN THE CELEBRITIES