After a noteworthy couture debut that introduced menswear for the Maison, Clare Waight Keller followed up with another remarkable collection, dedicated to founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in February at the age of 91.
On every seat was a book chronicling archival dresses from the 1950s through to 1970s, influences of which were evinced in Waight Keller’s parade of new offerings, from the capes, peekaboos and flou that she reinterpreted. Celebrating Givenchy’s timeless creations, as well as the man’s innate sense of refinement, her posthumous tribute epitomised modern elegance, elevated with futuristic accents in the sleek, graphic silhouettes and metallic embroidery.
Waight Keller also honoured the late couturier by naming each look in her collection with an adjective he once used to refer to his runway looks.
THE HIGHLIGHTS The Dominante The leather Iconique cape was lined with silk cady in aquamarine that complemented the feathers, embroidered on the silk georgette gown, in a beautiful range of graduated hues. Pur You can imagine Monsieur de Givenchy donning this elegant scarfneck top in silk jersey, worn with a double-breasted wool twill jacket adorned with horn buttons.
THE NAME The Caraman collection is named after Duke of Caraman, owner of the historic 19th century townhouse at 3 Avenue George V. With its grand staircase, elaborate wrought iron bannister and ornate salons, the hôtel particulier was the location where Hubert de Givenchy established his couture ateliers back in 1959. Since then, it has served as the setting for presentations, receptions and the first Givenchy boutique.
THE OPENER The presentation was bookended with nods to Audrey Hepburn, beloved muse to Monsieur de Givenchy. Opening the show was the Charmante sequinned dress in matte silver with a cape-back T-shirt top in white, recalling Hepburn’s pink and white number in Funny Face.