AS MUCH AS PRODUCERS ENJOY JUGGLING WITH NAMES, THE VARIETAL SPELLING IS FAR LESS IMPORTANT THAN THE TERROIR.

now boasts more peppery, sleek and elegant bottles from cooler areas within Victoria and New South Wales. Terroirs that show great potential – places such as Heathcote, Grampians, Yarra Valley, Hunter Valley and Canberra District – are no longer under the radar. The traditional Australian style has been dissolved.

While some producers have kept their Shiraz labelling, some turned to Syrah to imply a cool, fresh European style. As much as producers enjoy juggling with names, the varietal spelling is far less important than the terroir when it comes to the wine’s features.

New Zealand has a more pronounced presence of Syrah. The Gimblett Gravels terroir within North Island’s Hawke’s Bay is perfect for the spicy, brooding style reminiscent of fine northern Rhône. It also shows its signature purity and focus, rendering the deep peppery fruit and plushness that a fine Hawke’s Bay Syrah offers.

In Chile, the diversity of Syrah is getting mapped out. Wines from the Central Valley, especially Colchagua and Maipo, are fleshier and more voluptuous. Syrah from Limari shows savouriness and blue fruit. We’re also very pleased with the Syrah from Casablanca and San Antonio Valley, both of which are acclaimed sources for coolclimate expressions of the grape, some reminiscent of an outstanding Côte Rôtie or Hermitage.

“Syrah is indeed very promising here in the valley,” says Meinard Bloem, chief winemaker of Casas del Bosque in Casablanca. “The subtlety and spicy fruit render an intellectual expression of the grape.”

Back in the Northern Hemisphere, California is now an aspiring contender for great Syrah/shiraz. Along with Santa Barbara, wineries in Napa and Sonoma are attempting great wines with this spicy variety. And Washington State is producing some rock ’n’ roll Syrahs that some of the New World fruit drive, but with an underlying Old World reserve and green notes. This may be the best place to make Syrah in the entire United States.

Italy also has its regions for Syrah, with Tuscany taking more of the spotlight. Most of the best are made on the Tuscan coast, but areas between Florence and Tuscany – as well as near Cortona – make spicy and complex reds. We’ve even had a number of noteworthy Syrahs from Sicily.

Today, to be Syrah or Shiraz is no longer a question. As producers focus more on expressing their own terroir with this grape, the future of Syrah will be more diverse than ever. Nor do we believe what some sommeliers and wine merchants in America say about Syrah being hard to sell. Open a glorious bottle of Syrah from any of the best regions in the world and enjoy – and marvel at their unique character and greatness. More and more people in the world, especially in Asia, are enjoying excellent Syrah.