WATCH REPORT 2021

Feast your eyes on this year’s noteworthy timepieces

The first quarter of 2021 heralds a renewed confidence in the world of horology, with brands flexing their versatility through a wide range of novelties that span accessible favourites to signature complications. Feast your eyes on the new releases in this first segment of a two-part report. ROLEX

The Crown’s 2021 novelties include refreshments to the Oyster Perpetual Explorer range, some utterly over-the-top bejewelled additions to the Day-date 36 and Lady-datejust collections, as well as a number of new dial designs for the Datejust 36 and Day-date 36. The latter line, which now includes a stunning version with a diamond-set bezel and Eisenkiesel (a quartz variety) dial on a President bracelet, really does seem to be shaping up as the watch for all seasons and reasons.

However, the Rolexes that are really catching our eye this year are the trio of Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytonas, each with an utterly unique dial that’s been sliced from a chunk of meteorite. The new 40mm models are available with a white gold case, monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic and a rather discreet Oysterflex bracelet; with a yellow gold case, bezel and Oyster bracelet; or with a case, bezel and Oyster bracelet in Everose gold.

Aside from the dials (which also feature contrasting black subdials), the new references are little changed from existing models: The Superlative Chronometer Certified automatic calibre 4130 boasts a 72-hour power reserve and an accuracy of +2/-2 seconds a day.

BVLGARI

It’s undeniable that Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo range has made an indelible mark in the world of haute horlogerie. The maison has racked up seven world records in a short seven years with the latest for the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar – the slimmest in the world. Reinterpreting a classical horological complication in a resolutely contemporary manner, the 40mm timepiece spotlights Bvlgari’s finesse in rewriting traditional watchmaking codes.

No less than 408 components interact within the extremely tight space provided by the ultra-slender 5.8mm case of the sleek model. The development of the 2.75mm calibre BVL 305 required the manufacture’s movement design engineers to devise new solutions, such as the use of a micro-rotor and the optimal use of the space between the components without reducing their dimensions.

A testament to true genius in the realm of miniaturisation, this development powers the hour and minute hands along with all the perpetual calendar functions: retrograde-display date, day, month and retrograde-display leap year. They are adjusted by means of three correctors: one for the date at 2 o’clock, another for the month at 4 o’clock and a third for the day between 8 and 9 o’clock.

The owner will be able to read the time without having to adjust the indications before February 2100, a leap year that will require the adjustment of the functions. The timepiece is offered in titanium with a matching bracelet, as well as in platinum with a blue lacquered dial and accompanied by an alligator leather strap.

MONTBLANC

From the raft of newcomers presented by Le Locle-based Montblanc, we’ve decided to focus on a theme first presented at the final SIHH in 2019. Housed in a 40mm rose gold case, the Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100 is a handsome timepiece that effortlessly straddles classic and contemporary, features an especially eye-catching dial coloured in a burnt caramel with sunray finish and – given the complexity of the complication – is a paragon of elegant simplicity.

In addition to time, day, date, month, moonphase and leap-year functions, the self-winding movement also powers a second time-zone hour hand and a 24-hour display.

Since levers have been eliminated from the mechanism (they’re replaced by wheels and cams), the time can be adjusted in either direction. Aside from the colour, this is no different from the white-dial model presented two years ago. However, the warm and rich new tone lifts it to a new level of desirability.

The 77-jewel, 378-component Calibre MB 29.22, which is based around a Richemont three-hand movement, oscillates at 4Hz and provides a reserve of around two days. The watch is supplied on a brown alligator sfumato strap with rose gold buckle and comes in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

While the Ref. 5711/1A Nautilus in stainless steel will soon be discontinued, watch connoisseurs can look forward to a new addition to the cult range. The manufacture presented the Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus featuring a ridged sunburst dial in an elegant olive green – a brand new hue for the collection.

There’s no doubt that the new colourway suits the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus perfectly. There is also a unisex bejewelled version, Ref. 5711/1300A-001, which features a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. In almost all other respects, though, this is familiar territory for the 5711: the 4Hz 26-330 S C automatic calibre with Gyromax balance and Spiromax silicon balance spring – offering 35 to 45 hours of power – is a spin-off of the calibre 324 S C that has been in use since 2019. The 12-bar water resistance, applied hour markers and hands in white gold, and an eminently wearable 40mm by 8.3mm case size are equally par for the course.

Aside from the new dial colour, nothing has really changed with the “entry-level” Nautilus. As discreetly classy as the 5711 has been, this new edition will also be impossibly difficult to get hold of: In 2019, The New York Times reported an eight-year wait – that is, if you could even get on the list. We can only assume that you’ll have alternative ways of checking the time between now and 2029.

CARTIER

The Cloche de Cartier watch is the fifth creation by Cartier’s Privé Collection, which revives the maison’s historical models through limited-edition timepieces. Named after the cloche or bell shape because its outline resembles that of a service bell found at counters when placed horizontally, the first Cartier timekeeper to incorporate the quirky silhouette was a 1920 brooch-watch with diamonds and onyx.

Although the rare timepiece has been in Cartier’s repertoire for decades, it has only been produced in small quantities with the last relaunch being in 2007. Still flaunting a dial that is rotated 90 degrees clockwise from the conventional position, the wearer can read the time by extending the arm, instead of bringing the wrist towards him or her.

Another unexpected feature of the watch is its ability to be read like a clock when placed upright on a nightstand or table. The rail track and hour markings are adapted to the dial’s asymmetrical shape and the crown is set with a cabochon gem. Two new calibres were made at the Cartier Manufacture at La Chaux-de-fonds to adapt to the unique case shape.

There are six 37.15mm by 28.75mm references for the Cloche de Cartier. Each a numbered limited edition of 100 pieces, the two-handed model is offered in yellow or pink gold, and platinum, and is equipped with the hand-wound 1917 MC movement. Meanwhile the Cloche de Cartier Skeleton, which is driven by the 9626 MC movement, is available in pink gold and platinum (each a numbered limited edition of 50 pieces). Lastly, a platinum diamond-set openworked version is offered in a limited edition of only 20 pieces.

LOUIS VUITTON

The French house’s contribution to high watchmaking this year is a flying tourbillon-fitted GMT creation peppered with signature motifs, such as the glorious initial “V” – a tribute to Gaston Vuitton. Developed by the maison’s own manufacture La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon features a case whose shape is an extrapolation of last year’s Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève.

Made of shot-blasted grade 5 titanium, the 46mm case middle of this dynamic model draws inspiration from the Möbius strip. Stretched and elongated, it catches the eye with the convex curve of its bezel and crystal.

The watch has two push pieces on the right side of its case in order to simplify the setting of the GMT function. This enables the dedicated indicator, positioned within the open counter at 3 o’clock, to move forward or backwards. At the same time, it also allows Louis Vuitton to maintain the symmetry of the watch and further highlight the case’s soft proportions.

Powered by the in-house calibre LV 82, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is available entirely in titanium (top); with lugs, pushers and winding crown in pink gold; or in a full titanium version with a dial carved from the Gibeon meteorite that landed in Namibia and hour markers set with baguette-cut diamonds.

CHANEL

Melding brilliant gem-setting techniques and a beautifully crafted skeletonised movement, Chanel’s 2021 interpretation of the J12 X-ray watch plays with a rainbow of colours. The J12 X-ray Electro Calibre 3.1 builds upon the same foundation that made the collection a must-have for high jewellery watch lovers.

As indicated in its name, the watch is powered by the Calibre 3.1, a manufacture hand-wound movement with 55 hours of power reserve whose moving parts are all secured by sapphire bridges, including the minute counter bridge, baseplate and cogwheel bridge. As a result, the dial exhibits incredible transparency where it is also punctuated by 12 baguette-cut rainbow sapphire hour markers.

They are further complemented by another 46 baguette-cut rainbow sapphires weighing approximately 6.46 carats and set on the white gold bezel, while the white gold non-screw-down crown flaunts a brilliant-cut diamond.

Transparency flows onto the watch’s unique bracelet, where each link is made of sapphires bound together by white gold pins. The devil is in the details – and although this picture doesn’t show it, two links on the bracelet are set with an additional 34 baguette-cut diamonds. The watch is produced in a numbered and limited edition of just 12 pieces.

CHOPARD

The manufacture commemorates its 25th anniversary by debuting into the world of jumping hours with the understated L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 featuring a 40mm ethical rose gold case and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève hallmark.

A jumping hour watch is unique in the way it indicates time. By eschewing the customary hour hand, it features a digital display with an hour disc that works with the minute hand. When the minute hand passes the 60th minute mark, it triggers the disc to leap forward to the next hour. As this motion consumes more energy than a traditional display, Chopard makes the sensible move by equipping the timepiece with an L.U.C 98.06-L manual-wound movement fitted with four barrels. Based on the exclusive Chopard Quattro technology, this provides the watch with a power reserve of up to eight days – more generous than many contemporary jumping hour models – despite the movement still beating at a brisk 4Hz frequency.

One of very few maisons which has mastered the centuries-old art of enamelling, Chopard endows the watch with a gorgeous white grand feu enamel dial in ethical rose gold, crafted by an enamelling artisan from the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. Only 100 pieces of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 will be produced.