Ate­lier Zegna

Robb Report Singapore - - The Bespoke Issue - By CHRIS­TIAN BARKER

Ermenegildo Zegna will al­ways be a favourite of CEOs and fi­nan­cial ti­tans. But its ap­peal ex­tends far be­yond the cor­po­rate cor­ri­dors of power, and over the past decade, the Ital­ian menswear gi­ant has done much to cast off the out­moded (and in­cor­rect) per­cep­tion that it is merely a pur­veyor of board­room-friendly tai­lor­ing.

Yes, you cer­tainly can get a clas­sic suit in one of the count­less beau­ti­ful, tra­di­tional cloths pro­duced at the brand’s vast Trivero mill, or a fan­tas­tic seven-fold tie, or a pair of old-school bench­made ox­fords. How­ever, Zegna can cater equally well to your down­time needs with readyto-wear or made-to-or­der leisure at­tire, run­way-fresh fash­ion, luxe high-tech ath­letic gear, chic out­er­wear and but­terysoft leather jack­ets.

What dis­tin­guishes the com­pany’s new be­spoke ser­vice, Ate­lier Zegna, which launched early last year, is its abil­ity to make unique, per­son­ally tai­lored gar­ments in any of these cat­e­gories – and in­ven­tive com­bi­na­tions thereof. The brand’s artis­tic di­rec­tor Alessan­dro Sar­tori ex­plains that the ma­jor­ity of Zegna’s be­spoke clients are new cus­tomers. “Many of them are com­ing be­cause of the fact that we don’t only do suits, we don’t only make clas­sic tai­lor­ing with beau­ti­ful clas­sic fab­ric. We also do fancy tai­lor­ing, we do fash­ion tai­lor­ing, we do out­er­wear, and we do sports­wear.” It also of­fers be­spoke footwear, hand­made by the highly re­spected Bri­tish shoe­maker Gaziano & Gir­ling.

Gar­ments can be made in cloth se­lected from the near­in­fi­nite ar­ray that Zegna cre­ates, or from fab­rics se­lec­tively ac­quired else­where. “Of course, we have a very good source in Zegna’s own mills,” Sar­tori says with much un­der­state­ment. “We also have fab­rics com­ing from a cou­ple of other com­pa­nies be­cause we do want to of­fer the au­then­tic Bri­tish Har­ris tweed, for in­stance, or beau­ti­ful Ir­ish linen, or shirt­ing fab­ric from some fan­tas­tic English and Ital­ian sup­pli­ers. We want to have a full va­ri­ety. But most of the fab­ric is de­signed ex­clu­sively.”

Cus­tomers can also take ad­van­tage of Zegna’s be­spoke fab­ric ser­vice. “You can de­sign your own fab­ric for one gar­ment,” Sar­tori says. “You can ar­rive say­ing, you know, ‘I have this old jacket’ or ‘I have this old coat from my dad, I want to du­pli­cate it,’ or ‘I want the same cloth, just in a dif­fer­ent colour.’ What­ever you want, we can do it at our mill in Trivero. Any­thing you can imag­ine, any kind of fab­ric, we can weave it. Just for you. We can make just the length for one gar­ment or as much as you may like.”

Sar­tori is ex­cited by the prospect of chang­ing our con­cep­tion of ‘be­spoke’ by cre­at­ing tai­lored out­fits that in­te­grate el­e­ments of func­tional or ath­letic at­tire. “There is a world­wide trend of lux­ury leisurewear, or of a leisurewear at­ti­tude. As an ex­am­ple, we’re of­fer­ing suits where the top is not a tai­lor­ing-style jacket,

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