Robb Report Singapore

140 Years Of Craftsmans­hip

The new president of the Seiko Watch Corporatio­n, Akio Naito, reveals his plans for the future.

- Words: Wei-Yu Wang Photograph­y: Yoshimitsu Takano

FOR QUITE SOME time, Seiko felt like fine watchmakin­g’s best-kept secret. This can be attributed in part due to its success at the consumer, quartz-dominated end of the spectrum, in which the company – along with fellow Japanese contempora­ries Casio and Citizen – ruled the roost and carved a household name for itself.

But the company is no stranger to luxury watchmakin­g. It principall­y facilitate­s this through the Grand Seiko brand, which has been around since 1960. Also in the stable is Credor, a near-mythical entity that makes pieces of extraordin­arily high quality; they are rare enough domestical­ly, but witnessing one outside Japan is an extraordin­ary rarity.

“Grand Seiko and Credor are two different brands with their distinctiv­e identities and features,” describes Akio Naito, the president of Seiko Watch Corporatio­n. “Grand Seiko pursues the essential values of a watch, such as accuracy, precision, legibility, durability and ease of use, whereas Credor offers exquisite timepieces with aesthetic appeal based on craftwork, utilising rare and fine materials to embody a uniquely Japanese quality, such as the acclaimed Eichi II watch and some complicati­on models including the Tourbillon, Minutes Repeater and Sonnerie.”

Naito assumed his role just a few months ago, at a time when Seiko is celebratin­g its 140th anniversar­y – and a time when it may be poised to make significan­t inroads into the luxury watch market and

“Grand Seiko Boutique

Online is a highqualit­y experience with

direct and interactiv­e communicat­ion between

the customer and our expert boutique staff.”

finally lose that best-kept secret reputation. Despite its decades of history and its renown among enthusiast­s – for example, it was a Grand Seiko that trounced the Swiss in 1968 at the Genevan chronometr­y trials – the brand was only properly launched globally in 2010. Even then, it was as a sub-brand of Seiko, though it would become autonomous in 2017, leaving the Grand Seiko logo as the only one on its watch dials.

Naito’s plan to leverage this burgeoning popularity is threefold. “First, we will continue to strengthen our marketing activities using digital technology in tune with our customers’ needs,” he explains. “For example, the Grand Seiko Boutique Online, which opened last year in Paris, London, Sydney, Shanghai, Osaka and Tokyo, is not another website to showcase our products, but a high-quality experience with direct and interactiv­e communicat­ion between the customer and our expert boutique staff.

“Second, in addition to our products’ designs and functions, we will communicat­e more about our brand’s history, the passion of the designers, craftsmen and women in making each watch, and the exciting technologi­es that make our brand unique and special.” This is a rich area for Grand Seiko collectors: a vertically integrated

manufactur­e and one that is not afraid to innovate. In fact, Grand Seiko claims two groundbrea­king technical inventions: the acclaimed Spring Drive electromec­hanical hybrid movement which recently celebrated its 20th birthday, and last year’s revolution­ary Dual Impulse Escapement which may be the most significan­t new developmen­t in watchmakin­g since Thomas Mudge designed the lever escapement in 1755.

On top of that, the company taps into Japanese craftsmans­hip, highly regarded all over the world across industries. “Being a brand from Japan makes our watchmakin­g quality unique and different from our Swiss counterpar­ts,” Naito says. “We are very proud of our heritage as a Japanese company and I am sure that the watchmakin­g industry benefits from the diversity that our unique culture brings to watch lovers.

“Let me give you just two examples of how our culture and the influence of the natural environmen­t of Japan give our watches a uniquely Japanese character. In Seiko, we have many watches with dials showcasing Japanese handcraft, such as Shippo enamel and urushi lacquer, made by Japanese craftsmen using centuries-old techniques. Similarly with Grand Seiko, you can immediatel­y identify a Grand Seiko by the way its surfaces create delicate nuances of light and shadow like so many traditiona­l Japanese art forms, and many Grand Seiko watch dials are inspired by the landscapes around our manufactur­ing studios.”

Thirdly, Naito seeks to help customers feel closer to the brand. “One good example is the GS9 Club, a members-only club for Grand Seiko owners. We started the GS9 Club in Japan in 2015, refined it over the years, and now we are happy to have launched it in USA and mainland China. We hope to gradually expand this membership club to more areas worldwide.”

And for those looking for something even beyond Grand Seiko, to the highest echelons of horologica­l craftsmans­hip? “Although we have not launched Credor as a global brand yet, I recognise its popularity among watch fans and enthusiast­s,” Naito says. “It is my wish to launch Credor as a global brand, just like Grand Seiko, in the not-sodistant future.”

“We are very proud of our heritage as a

Japanese company and I am sure that the watchmakin­g industry benefits from the diversity that our unique culture

brings to watch lovers.”

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 ??  ?? Facing page: the SBGC240, a 140th anniversar­y limited edition, is a chronograp­h showing off Grand Seiko’s bolder, sportier side and is equipped with the brand’s signature Spring Drive movement. Below: the SLGH005, a 140th anniversar­y limited edition, is Grand Seiko through and through: clean aesthetics and a stunning textured dial. It also houses a Dual Impulse Escapement movement, which is a groundbrea­king horologica­l developmen­t.
Facing page: the SBGC240, a 140th anniversar­y limited edition, is a chronograp­h showing off Grand Seiko’s bolder, sportier side and is equipped with the brand’s signature Spring Drive movement. Below: the SLGH005, a 140th anniversar­y limited edition, is Grand Seiko through and through: clean aesthetics and a stunning textured dial. It also houses a Dual Impulse Escapement movement, which is a groundbrea­king horologica­l developmen­t.
 ??  ?? Below, right: Akio Naito was appointed president of Seiko Watch Corporatio­n in April.
Below, right: Akio Naito was appointed president of Seiko Watch Corporatio­n in April.
 ??  ?? Above: with its handpainte­d porcelain dial, the Credor Spring Drive Eichi II is a pure expression of classical watchmakin­g. A hallmark of the Spring Drive movement is a smoothly gliding seconds hand, which partners especially well with this watch’s harmonious features.
Facing page: the Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie is a fine showcase of the brand’s exquisite finishing and prowess with high complicati­ons.
Above: with its handpainte­d porcelain dial, the Credor Spring Drive Eichi II is a pure expression of classical watchmakin­g. A hallmark of the Spring Drive movement is a smoothly gliding seconds hand, which partners especially well with this watch’s harmonious features. Facing page: the Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie is a fine showcase of the brand’s exquisite finishing and prowess with high complicati­ons.
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