Dealers’ Choice
Vintage Cartier is one of the hottest collectible categories in the watch world—and beyond. Here, five sellers share their tips for scoring a soon-to-be grail and reveal the buzziest pieces they’ve come across recently.
HARRY FANE OBSIDIAN HARRY FANE London Pro Tip
“Collectors still have opportunities to buy very good and rare Cartier watches from the 1920s and 1930s at not-huge prices. I would suggest the 1930s Tank JCs and Tank Normales, which are still buyable at US$25,000 to US$30,000. This will, however, change. The sleeping princess has definitely been kissed and is now wide-awake.”
Recent Highlight
1941 Cartier Paris Tank Cintrée in 18k yellow gold. “It’s particularly interesting as it was made in Paris at the height of the Second World War, when the city was under occupation. The workshops had neither heat nor light, and working conditions were very challenging.”
ALAN BEDWELL FOUNDWELL New York City Pro Tip
“The Tank Louis, Santos—particularly the Carrée—and the Baignoire are the most popular models we’re selling and being asked for. With regards to the Tank Louis, the ones to look for are any that have better calibre movements away from the ETA 2512. When looking at the two main vintage models of the Santos—the Carrée and the Galbée—in my opinion, the Carrée has the best lines and is the purest adaptation from the iconic Dumont.”
Recent Highlight
Late-1960s white-gold dress watch made by Baume & Mercier for Cartier. “A very elegant and clean watch that draws a lot from the early Cartier pocket watches.”
MATTHEW BAIN MATTHEW BAIN, INC. Miami Beach Pro Tip
“Early examples of the Cartier Tank Normale from the 1920s through the 1950s are near impossible to source. The platinum version is considered to be the grail. The production number of the early ones is very low. They had early Cartier or EWC movements with beautiful Breguet-style hands. Pricing on the Tank Normale has gone up 40 to 50 per cent in the past five years with more room to grow, especially for mint examples.”
Recent Highlight
Cartier Maxi Oval. “We have several extremely rare vintage Cartiers at the moment: our Cartier Maxi Oval from the 1970s that was made for the New York market in collaboration with Audemars Piguet.”
GAI GOHARI CLASSIC 55 New York City Pro Tip
“Right now, the Cartier Cintrée, which is a slimmer, more elongated version of the Tank, is the most collectible.
It’s a nice size and is a more impressive piece than the understated Tank. They also have the modern version and the custom pieces, which a lot of collectors bought, which certainly helps the vintage market. I think it’s the premier Cartier to have for a collector.”
Recent Highlight
Cartier Cloche. “I have a pair of Cartier Cloche watches, the bell-shaped ones—one in white gold and one in yellow gold. Those are very unique and rare. And I have a Tank Cintrée from 1970.”
CAMERON BARR CRAFT & TAILORED Los Angeles Pro Tip
“Santos-Dumonts are really hot and heavy— the smaller ones from the ’70s and ’80s. Cartier made a few models, also during that era, which are called the Extra Plate, that are ultra-ultra-thin. I have a massive waiting list for them.”
Recent Highlight
1970s Cartier Coussin in 18k yellow gold. “The Coussin, which they call the Cartier Bamboo, is interesting. It’s a watch I personally love. It’s very rare because it’s kind of just weird. Cartier didn’t make a lot of them. There are other models like the Ceinture—these are really interesting watches that come in a variety of sizes. Those sell really, really quickly.”