The For­mal En­sem­ble

Rules For The Modern Man - - Rules For The Modern Man -

The peaked lapel is the com­man­der-in-chief of the pack, the el­der brother of lapels, and it shows you mean busi­ness. The moniker comes from the style of the lapel as it falls against the col­lar. It ac­cen­tu­ates the up­per part of the body promi­nently, and thus vis­ually en­hances the physique of the suit-wearer.

Peaked lapels should never be too nar­row. They should come up to two-thirds across the shoul­der, un­like notch lapels that usu­ally just reach to un­der half the shoul­der width. Cer­tain la­bels such as Tom Ford tend to­ward a broader lapel to add flam­boy­ance to the suit. Lapo Elkann, style sa­vant and all-round cool guy, wears peak lapels as broad as his shoul­ders.

Where three-but­ton suits were stan­dard for for­mal suits, the two-but­ton is de rigueur to­day. It offers the ap­pear­ance of a longer torso against the pant. One should also pay at­ten­tion to the shoul­der of a suit, which helps to de­fine it more strongly with the chest piece. Gior­gio Ar­mani's mas­ter tai­lor Mario Ver­gani points out that the con rollino, or the roll, where the arm hole is cut slightly smaller than the shoul­der so it forms a slight pro­trud­ing roll when stitched, is a more for­mal look.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.