SALT Magazine - - Feature - 928 Yishun Laksa (928 Yishun Cen­tral 1, #01-155)

Madam Chen started sell­ing laksa in 1992. With no ref­er­ence point apart from a few recipe books and her ob­ser­va­tions of other laksa hawk­ers, she tested out it­er­a­tion after it­er­a­tion of laksa on her friends un­til she had their ap­proval. The ver­sion she even­tu­ally set­tled on fea­tured a broth with a hint of co­conut milk, as op­posed to the co­conut milk-laden ver­sions typ­i­cal of Nonya-style laksa. “I chose this style be­cause I felt it wouldn’t make my cus­tomers too ‘je­lak’ (over­whelmed by rich flavours). It makes the whole ex­pe­ri­ence tastier.” Stir a spoon­ful of the chunky homemade sam­bal brim­ming with hae bee (dried shrimp) into the light-bod­ied broth though, and it in­stantly thick­ens. Chen crowns her laksa with a gen­er­ous amount of fish cake, tau pok, crab stick and cock­les.

It’s no won­der that even at 9am, the non-de­script stall is of­ten lit­tered with emp­tied red bowls. Chen, who’s now in her 60s says, “When I re­tire, I’d like to con­tinue re­search­ing lo­cal food. It’s al­ways been my in­ter­est.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.