Singapore Tatler Jewels & Time
Fire and Steel
Some of the hottest, most collectible new watches launching in 2021 are in steel. This everyday material can sometimes represent a better investment than precious metals
Gold and platinum may be far more expensive, but some of the costliest watches ever sold have been cased in standard stainless steel. Steel watches from Patek Philippe set the standard. A one-off steel-cased Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A became the most expensive timepiece ever auctioned when it fetched US$31 million in 2019. A relatively simpler perpetual calendar chronograph from the brand that dates back to the 1950s sold for US$11 million in 2016, and it too was in steel. Other examples abound, such as the steel perpetual calendar from 1949 that went under the hammer for a few dollars shy of US$4 million in 2008. This year, Patek announced that it would stop producing the endlessly popular Nautilus ref. 5711 with blue dial in steel. This watch, with an estimated waiting list of more than eight years, retails for about S$46,000, but is often bought for twice that sum or more by impatient collectors on the secondary market. As a parting gesture, the company unveiled a successor with a green dial, which instantly became rabidly in-demand and, for those who view watches from a pecuniary perspective, a surefire way to make quick (and substantial) returns. Rolex is, of course, another brand whose steel watches are objects of intense desire among collectors. The brand introduced new iterations of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer I and Oyster Perpetual Explorer II this year. The new Explorer I, downsized to its traditional case diameter of 36mm, is a beauty, while the Explorer II received several technical updates of its own. What got many aficionados most excited was the return of the sportier three-link Oyster bracelet on the strainless steel version of the Oyster Perpetual Gmt-master Ii—an option that, for the past few years, has only been made available to references of the model in gold.
Clearly, for some models it’s not just the case material that matters, but the overall timepiece—bracelet design included. The more accessible sibling brand to Rolex, Tudor has also premiered a new edition of the Black Bay Chronograph. Slimmer than its predecessors, which were launched in 2017, its retro-styled dial is offered in a choice of black on white (“panda”) or white on black (“reverse panda”). The watch draws its inspiration from the chronographs of yore, but comes updated on the technical front, with an attractive price to boot; the reference with a steel bracelet retails at about S$7,200 and, true to its sporty design, is rated water resistant to 200m. Breitling has a steel-cased Premier Heritage B09 Chronograph that catches the eye with a unique pistachio-green dial. If it isn’t obvious by now, green dials are now in vogue, with the brands offering new timepieces in it including Patek Philippe, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Rolex, and Panerai. However, Breitling’s choice of an almost pastel tone really sets this piece apart from the myriad emerald, forest and olive greens. The new Cartier Tank Must is another colourful character. The brand launched an updated array of variations on the icon this year. It’s the models with the simplest designs that have received the lion’s share of attention: a trio of minimalist, monochromatic two-hand watches in green, blue and burgundy that do nothing but tell the time. If you’re looking for something equally angular and classically chic, but with a different aesthetic and approach compared to the quartz-powered Cartier, Jaegerlecoultre has unveiled the latest in its Reverso Tribute line. With both its dial and strap in an appealing deep green, this new iteration of the manufacture’s reversible-case sports watch—which was developed in the 1930s for polo players—is pure Art Deco elegance. Consider customising its blank case back with an engraving if you get this timepiece, to make it truly yours.