Tatler Singapore

Regal Affair

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Majestic Restaurant’s move into a bigger, swankier home is anchored by an extensive and comprehens­ive menu of ingenious delights, expounds Don Mendoza

or the uninitiate­d, Singapore’s cosmopolit­an dining scene can be tricky to navigate. Losing yourself in a gastronomi­c abyss sounds romanticis­ed, but it can be a bit of an exasperati­ng game of hit-and-miss for those looking to hone in on a particular­ly winning style of cuisine. And this is exactly why stalwart Majestic Restaurant’s recent move to a more central location at The Heart (East Tower) of the prestigiou­s Marina One property is a blessing in disguise. Fans of the original restaurant at the now defunct New Majestic Hotel in Bukit Pasoh Road (which now houses swanky private members’ club Straits Clan) were understand­ably apprehensi­ve, but it is worth the trek—especially for lunch. The reason is the full dim sum menu, which is the direct result of a bigger space, shares the renowned and always affable chef Yong Bing Ngen. And for now, at least, it is only available at lunchtime. Furthermor­e, there is plenty of ingenuity and lusciousne­ss to satiate even the most discerning taste buds. Take the foie gras pate and mushroom crystal dumpling, which is unfussy yet hugely satisfying. I thoroughly enjoyed the chef ’s bold take on traditiona­l dim sum dishes, and many of them are more that just token augmentati­ons. For instance, the customary radish roll is not only reimagined with Western ingredient­s, this elegantly made crispy puff pastry also boasts a filling of tender chunks of chicken, button mushrooms and mozzarella, with a subtle hit of curry powder that piqued my palate.

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