LEAD THE WAY
In an industry heavily skewed towards male consumers, how did Blancpain, one of the oldest watch manufactures in operation, remain relevant and attractive to its female clientele? We go back in history to find out
For a brand synonymous with high-end watchmaking complications and well-known for its Fifty Fathoms, an ultra-masculine, testosterone-laced dive watch, Blancpain does have a softer side. By that, we mean that the Swiss watchmaker doesn’t exist in a purely masculine universe; its connection with the women’s world started in the early 20th century and has remained deeply rooted. The brand was inaugurated in 1735 by Jehan-jacques Blancpain, who opened a watchmaking workshop on the second storey of his farmhouse in the Jura village of Villeret. The business was passed down from generation to generation and was successful enough to survive despite being affected by world events such as wars. During those decades, however, the brand left an indelible mark on the world of watchmaking thanks to its groundbreaking innovations. Case in point: in 1815, Frédéric-louis Blancpain, the great-grandson of Jehan-jacques, modernised the escapement used in pocket watches. Because of Blancpain’s ability to innovate and progress with the times, the family business survived through the centuries. It was in 1915 when Frédéric-louis’ son, Frédéric-emile Blancpain, who was heading the company at the time, hired a very capable and talented Betty Fiechter to assist him in the running of the workshop. Frédéric-emile trained Fiechter to manage the business and eventually appointed her as the director of the factory, overseeing all production matters at Blancpain. Fiechter proved to be a trusted lieutenant, which allowed Frédéric-emile to focus on expanding Blancpain’s presence overseas. But when he suddenly passed on in 1932, the Blancpain family was left with no male heir to succeed the business. Fiechter was however ready to take over the business and together with Blancpain sales director André Léal, she purchased the company in 1933. Due to Swiss laws (possibly in a bid to avoid confusion among consumers), it was renamed Rayville-blancpain, Rayville being a phonetic anagram of Villeret. The Great Depression that swept across the world did Fiechter no favours, but the American market, which had stabilised by the mid-1930s, helped her tide through the tough times. That she transformed the company into a movement supplier helped too as Blancpain was soon supplying movements to major marques. Besides diversifying the business, Fiechter also made sure that the
brand catered to a wider audience, including women, a segment of the market neglected by most brands then. Blancpain started presenting mechanical wristwatches specifically for women back then, making it one of the pioneers in the history of ladies’ watches. What made Blancpain stand out from the rest was that it offered women’s timepieces with miniaturised movements that feature horological complications once reserved for men. Fiechter’s nephew Jean-jacques Fiechter joined the business in 1950, and together they grew Blancpain into a major force to be reckoned with. Some of their key achievements included the aforementioned Fifty Fathoms, the world’s first modern diving watch that remains an icon today, and the Ladybird women’s watch circa 1956, which featured the world’s smallest round movement then. Under the joint Fiechter tenure, the Ladybird line enjoyed enormous commercial success and many versions were launched, including ones in precious metals and encrusted with gemstones. In fact, Hollywood superstar Marilyn Monroe was said to have chosen one of the heavily gem-set Ladybirds. Thanks to the brilliant foresight of Betty (and subsequently, Jean-jacques), and the runaway success of the Ladybird, the manufacture continued riding on the wave and pushed for more female creations. As technology improved, Blancpain insisted on not merely miniaturising existing complications but developing movements and watches with women in mind. This winning philosophy gave the brand an edge and drove it forward even after it became part of the Société Suisse pour l’industrie Horlogère conglomerate in 1961, and Betty’s retirement in 1970. It also explains why the marque repeatedly smashed horological world records for women’s watches. The first self-winding moonphase watch for ladies in 1984 and the first self-winding minute repeater for women four years later were stellar examples. But Blancpain wasn’t just pushing the envelope in terms of functionality. Watches, like jewellery, are emotional purchases. The look and design of the timepieces also matter. Which was why despite Blancpain making headway with its diving watches, its female counterparts never looked like adapted versions of men’s watches but held their own with a refined and elegant aesthetic in a resolutely beautiful and feminine spirit. Looking back, Blancpain’s success wouldn’t have been possible without Betty’s leadership and foresight. Today, Blancpain still remains one of the few marques equally adept at designing and manufacturing top-notch watches for both men and women—something that Betty would have approved.
The end of Villeret for Papa brings real sadness, but I can assure you that the only solution which can truly ease my sadness is your taking over of the manufacture together with Mr Leal. Thanks to this fortunate solution, I can see that the traditions of our precious past will be followed and respected in every way. You were, for Papa, a rare and dear collaborator. One more time, let me thank you for your great and lasting tenderness, which I embrace and will carry with me in my heart. AN EXCERPT FROM A TOUCHING LETTER THAT FRÉDÉRIC-EMILE BLANCPAIN’S ONLY DAUGHTER, BERTHE-NELLIE, WROTE TO BETTY FIECHTER
BLANCPAIN B2M-237 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, tel: 6634 8771 blancpain.com