Ki-sho

The kitchen is led by the engaging chef Kazuhiro Hamamoto, who has mastered his craft working at some of the best restaurants in Kyoto. You’ll find him behind the sushi bar chatting with diners while skilfully preparing each dish, which begins with a few seasonal appetisers such as the Hokkaido uni with oscietra caviar and the amadai (tilefish) with dashi and sour plum in a claypot—all made with Japan’s freshest catch. The meal soars with the pieces of nigiri presented: for the hokkigai (surf clam), he taps it with his finger to relax the muscles and make it softer; he lightly sears the Hokkaido snow crab in charcoal; and the ootoro is served atop rice with just a dollop of freshly grated wasabi. Service is all you would expect from a Japanese restaurant of this calibre; the mostly Japanese staff are attentive to diners’ needs and go out of their way to accommodate requests. The drinks list has some impressive wines, but it’s the sake collection that stands out.