Foo’d by Da­vide Ol­dani

T. Dining by Singapore Tatler - - Western -

The con­cise menu is a wel­come de­vi­a­tion from the lengthy tomes in other es­tab­lish­ments. The starter of a won­der­fully sticky, warm caramelise­d onion tart, topped with 20-month aged Grana Padano “ice cream”, in­trigues the palate with its con­trast of hot and cold. This also kicks off the five-course dé­gus­ta­tion menu, fol­lowed by a pea soup that’s rather aro­matic from the dis­tinct ad­di­tion of lemon­grass. It does, how­ever, lead nicey into the next dish: a de­li­ciously acer­bic risotto dressed in a marsala wine re­duc­tion and but­ter mix. All that said, it would help to have a wider se­lec­tion of mains, which is why it pays to go à la carte. Dishes, such as the sim­plic­ity of the duck in smoked herbs, im­press; as does the bright, au­then­tic branzino served with dat­terini toma­toes, clams and chunky bread. Wines by the glass are mostly Ital­ian, but the mod­est list does in­clude ex­am­ples of in­dige­nous Si­cil­ian va­ri­etals along­side more pop­u­lar va­ri­eties.

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