Meta differentiates itself from other fusion restaurants in a unique way, thanks to its Korean leanings. Helmed by chef Sun Kim, it fuses Korean, Japanese, French and European dining with an unfussy style. Bite-sized dishes are delightful, showcasing the ambition and approach of chef Sun and his team. Dishes are sensitively plated and gently seasoned, which is a departure from most other restaurants, although it may not appeal to all. The combinations are surprising—such as butternut squash and corn, persimmon and walnut, and bossam with oyster leaf—but the flavours work quite well. The creativity and fine execution extend well into the desserts, which provide some of the most memorable Asian flavour accents. While first-time diners might initially suspect that there’s more style than substance here, that feeling will be very quickly replaced by a welcoming satiation. Meta is a refreshing and worthy addition to our dining scene.