Shunjuu stays true to the traditional izakaya aesthetics, with cramped tables, an impressive sake display and a busy open kitchen. This gives the place a lively feel that diners crave—along with its izakaya offerings. There are more than 70 items to choose from, so start with the cod roe sandwiched between sliced whole cucumber; the saltiness and piquancy of the fish eggs are balanced out by the fresh, sweet Japanese cucumber. Served cold, the cod roe spaghetti is a burst of freshness. Thin strands are generously tossed in a truffle oil and soya sauce mixture, and topped with vibrant orange salmon roe that pops in the mouth. Oysters are also worth ordering; they’re deshelled and filled with a cheese-mayo concoction that cuts through the brininess. For something different, try the exploded tofu stew, akin to the Korean sundubu jjigae. The reddish soup is filled with tofu and veggies and has a subtle heat that’s so comforting, you won’t mind having it in hot weather.