Foo’d by Davide Oldani
The concise menu is a welcome deviation from the lengthy tomes in other establishments. The starter of a wonderfully sticky, warm caramelised onion tart, topped with 20-month aged Grana Padano “ice cream”, intrigues the palate with its contrast of hot and cold. This also kicks off the five-course dégustation menu, followed by a pea soup that’s rather aromatic from the distinct addition of lemongrass. It does, however, lead nicey into the next dish: a deliciously acerbic risotto dressed in a marsala wine reduction and butter mix. All that said, it would help to have a wider selection of mains, which is why it pays to go à la carte. Dishes, such as the simplicity of the duck in smoked herbs, impress; as does the bright, authentic branzino served with datterini tomatoes, clams and chunky bread. Wines by the glass are mostly Italian, but the modest list does include examples of indigenous Sicilian varietals alongside more popular varieties.