Song of In­dia, The

T. Dining by Singapore Tatler - - Indian/modern -

Pas­sion­ate ex­ec­u­tive chef Man­ju­nath Mu­ral is the driv­ing force be­hind the mod­ern In­dian cui­sine here. The cook­ing is re­fined In­dian, us­ing the potli method (where spices are bound in a muslin bag) so that sauces don’t have the grainy rem­nants of spices and seeds com­mon­place in most In­dian restau­rants. The re­sult might seem jar­ring, but it means that sauces and mari­nades are smooth, al­most like purées. Mu­ral likes to bal­ance flavours, so a spicy jumbo prawn might pre­cede a tamer chicken dish, one whose aroma and taste bears lit­tle re­sem­blance to the typ­i­cal tra­di­tional In­dian fare. High­lights in­clude a soft Awadhi lamb with yo­ghurt sauce that’s moist with a del­i­cate un­der­cur­rent of spice, and a creamy Alphonso mango kulfi that isn’t overly sweet. The ex­te­rior of the build­ing re­calls Sin­ga­pore’s colo­nial her­itage—a stately black-and-white with a gar­den set­ting that seems miles re­moved from the bus­tle of nearby Or­chard Road.

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