Cooking With A Conscience
It’s not just a matter of taste, chef and eco-warrior Simon Rogan tells Don Mendoza
Despite success back home in the United Kingdom,
Simon Rogan has a soft spot for Asian food. If you do get a chance to dine at one of his restaurants, the influences are delectably evident. But, ask him to describe his culinary style, and the most obvious reference would be his two-michelin star riverside restaurant, L’enclume, with rooms and a farm, which he opened in the idyllic village of Cartmel in 2002, serving a cuisine that’s based on ingredients from the restaurant’s local surroundings.
“That’s why it’s so successful—it’s an amazing ethos and people really appreciate that,” Rogan affirms. The rules are a bit more relaxed with his London restaurants—aulis and Roganic—which feature food from all over the UK and some internationally sourced ingredients as well, reflecting the cosmopolitan city.
Like a handful of top chefs—blue Hill at Stone Barns’ Dan Barber, Noma’s René Redzepi and Australia’s Dan Hunter of Brae—who are committed to quality ingredients and ethical sourcing, what inspires the chef and what moves him to do what he does?