CURE

The food is true to its name, featuring fresh produce that has seen judicious rounds of curing, marinating and fermentation. A good example is the bright-purple salmon cured with beetroot and layered on crème fraîche, which balances its tart earthiness to great effect. The almost-cliché offer of foie gras is in the form of a thin torched custard, with sliced plum and almond crumble to provide a fruity balance and a contrasting texture. Both the Iberico pork loin with pork kofta and harissa and the chargrilled beef striploin with potato and marrow score on meticulous cooking techniques and clever use of complementary ingredients that provide unusual but memorable flavour combinations; you even feel healthy after such a dish.