ON THE COVER

Smoked Quail Served two ways using all parts of the quail, Meta’s Chef Sun Kim combines jasmine teasmoked quail breast with crisp, fried quail leg. The former sits under a blanket of parsley oil-compressed spinach dressed in quail jus made using its bones. It’s paired with celeriac “risotto” made from diced celeriac and Portobello mushrooms, set over a little celeriac puree made with trimmings and seasoned with miso. Photography: Ching of Greenplasticsoldiers