BRIDGING THE GAP
This ultra-trendy pocket of London is where the capital’s it-crowd is fast decamping to
This enclave straddles the line between north and east London—between the glossy media types of Islington and the younger, edgier inhabitants of Dalston, the Georgian squares of Canonbury and the Turkish barbers of Kingsland Road. Increasingly a hot spot for fashionable restaurants, natural wine bars and sleek boutiques as well as stylish underground cocktail bars and outdoor markets, this section of north-east London is fast becoming one of the most desirable parts of the capital.
Once the playground of literary giants such as George Orwell and Evelyn Waugh, it is a place where pubs hold onto their yesteryear charm and independent shops abound. One moment this neighbourhood will feel like a rural village with high-end aspirations, other times it will feel deliciously urban and cosmopolitan.
THE ESTORICK COLLECTION
A hidden gem most locals don’t even know about, the Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art is Britain’s only gallery exclusively exhibiting 20th-century Italian works. Housed in one of Canonbury’s Grade-ii listed beauties, the gallery’s ground floor has a delightful bookshop and café featuring Italian Futurist works and figurative art. Want to explore your own talent? There are life drawing sessions as well as familyfriendly workshops that have turned the gallery into a cultural hub for the neighbourhood. estorickcollection.com
RIO DALSTON
If you’re used to visiting brand-new cinemas in shiny shopping malls, then you’ll relish a trip to this history-rich theatre. The original building was an auctioneer’s shop that became the Kingsland Palace of Animated Pictures in 1909. Following an art deco makeover in the 1930s, it transformed into one of London’s first art-house cinemas. By 1971 it had taken on yet another guise as a cinema club with live striptease burlesque, and by the 1970s, nudity had been replaced by kung-fu flicks, Bollywood and Elvis revivals. And today? It shows indie hits and is now one of the most beloved institutions in the area. riocinema.org.uk
THE CANONBURY TAVERN
Love a bit of history? The Canonbury Tavern has been pulling pints since the 1700s and its deliciously English atmosphere makes it feel like a pub you’ve stumbled upon in the middle of the pretty village. The pub is filled with historical quirks: the staircase that leads to nowhere is there because of a dud refurbishment after the fire of 1846; the oak tree in the garden is where George Orwell wrote the first few chapters of 1984. In winter, it is all about warm Sunday roasts indoors; in summer, enjoy an Aperol Spritz (or four) in the bucolic pub garden. thecanonbury.co.uk
OREN
Among the new additions to the neighbourhood is Oren, which marries Middle Eastern flavours with contemporary influences. Known for his successful stints at Oval Space, Borough Wines Islington and Louie Louie in London, Israeliborn chef Oded Oren now helms his first restaurant on Shacklewell Lane. The 35-seater serves a menu comprising Mediterranean-inspired sharing plates prepared from a charcoal grill, and a wine list by Zeren Wilson that features biodynamic wines from around the world. orenlondon.com
JOLENE
Sitting on the edge of the very hip Newington Green (fashion darling Alexa Chung lives near here, as evidenced by her Instagram posts) is a restaurant beloved by locals and visitors. Open all day, Jolene serves some of the best food in the business, from a simple toasted cheese with salad at lunch to Syrian and Israeli feasts at night when it turns into one of London’s most romantic date spots. Don’t miss the bread from Jolene’s famous bakery or, if you’re there early in the day, one of their buttery, feather-light pain au chocolats. So good, you’d be forgiven for thinking they’d arrived by train from Paris that morning. jolenen16.com