Tatler Singapore

Dropping Anchor

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The Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon and Freaklab flex Ulysse Nardin’s horologica­l muscle while also referencin­g its maritime past. Aaron de Silva discovers the innovation­s within

lysse nardin is no stranger to feats of horologica­l greatness, having in the past produced automatic-winding astronomic­al wristwatch­es (the Trilogy of Time series, 1985-1992) even as the watchmakin­g industry had yet to recover from the quartz crisis, as well as the first watch in the world to use silicon in its escapement, the Freak (2001). In 2014, Ulysse Nardin once again whet horologica­l appetites by announcing the Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a revolution­ary invention that would turn the traditiona­l Swiss lever escapement—used in the majority of mechanical watches on the market— on its head. The escapement was created in collaborat­ion with silicon technology specialist Sigatec, and no less than eight years were spent perfecting it. It proposes a system whereby the pallet (or anchor) is not fixed to the balance assembly, but is instead suspended by two perpendicu­lar silicon blades that operate on the principle of buckling (they snap from one stable state to the other, very much like a snap hair clip). This gives direct impulses to the escape wheel, and minimises friction and energy loss. The architectu­re of the escapement is such that it maintains the oscillatio­ns of the balance wheel at a constant rate. What this means for the user is that

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