Ace of Jade
Daniela Andrier, the perfumer behind Bulgari’s Le Gemme Imperiali, talks oriental scents and sensibilities
Bulgari’s romantic past with jade is as colourful as the most cherished and sensuous stone of the East. The love affair blossomed in its colour revolution back in the 1950s and ’60s, when the jeweller took to Chinese antique jade carvings. The central part of its Roman flagship store housed earrings, brooches, and even carved “paper knife” handles no different from those of ancient traditions. As the Jade Gallery grew, so did Bulgari’s fascination with the mystical stone. More than half a century later, Bulgari continues its lifelong dedication with three new floral perfumes Le Gemme Imperiali. Imagined from the purest jades of green, white and purple, they embody splendour, purity and desire, respectively. Master perfumer Daniela Andrier tells us more.
How did Le Gemme Imperiali come about?
Bulgari wanted to develop a trilogy of fragrances as a tribute to China. The idea was then to transcribe the refined and sophisticated elegance of its traditional culture conveyed by jade into three fragrances, then finding the perfect balance and creating harmony.
How do the three scents differ from one another?
Each fragrance has been associated with other notable and precious ingredients. Splendia, the green jade, is a blend of magnolia, narcissus absolute and tree moss, conveying natural elegance. Irina, the white jade, sees the combination of magnolia and jasmine petals absolute with sensual musk. It conveys purity. Finally, Desiria, the purple jade, is a combination of magnolia with lush petal flowers and a unique ambergris accord. It imbues a feeling of delicately floral richness.
What is it about Asia and jade that intrigues you?
The great refinement, knowledge and mystery of ancient China have always
fascinated me. I find jade very special; the incredible opacity but also the milky transparency of jade in the light. The unique shades with their soft polish is very sensual.
Tell us about the use of magnolia.
It seemed clear to me early on that it should be the common luxurious ingredient of this trilogy of fragrances. Magnolia flower oil has a unique scent but is also very exclusive. The flower has a waxy aspect, reminiscent of the milky aspect of jade. It comes from China, is precious and gives a rich and natural note to the fragrances.
The scents are delicate yet strong. Is that emblematic of women today?
I think the careful balance of these fragrances reflect true elegance. They convey beauty and sophistication in a delicate but nevertheless affirmed way. The woman who wears these fragrances signals her presence and personality with an understated yet unmistakable message of grace. Graceful, but longlasting and very memorable.