REFRESHED AND REFINED

Chef Yong’s modern signature dishes are still as enjoyable, as is his lush yet comforting stewed mee sua with baby abalone. Others, such as the Peking duck, have enjoyed a few upgrades. The restaurant now uses the hybrid Irish bird from Silver Hill Farm in Ireland and the rewards are obvious. The crisp skin is served with slightly thicker and fluffier pink-hued (using rose powder) crepes. The meat, succulent and flavourful with just the right amount of extra fat, is served sliced and dressed in roasting juices—because it really doesn’t need anything more. And there is another prized poultry that has earned a place in the spotlight. It is a new dish and one that epitomises the chef ’s unique talent for elevating comfort foods and flavours we instinctively crave. The smoked French chicken arrives at the table bare under a glass cloche filled with hickory smoke—affirming once again how the best dishes need little embellishment. It also belies just how time-consuming the cooking process is. A modern take on the Hakka salt-baked chicken, the young corn-fed bird is first marinated overnight with herbs and salt. In the morning, it is blanched, hickory-smoked, and then hung to allow the skin to dry. It is finished in a bath of hot oil to crisp the skin just before serving. Order in advance because only six portions are prepared daily. The chef ’s rejuvenated repertoire remains peppered with nods to local flavours, paired with a renewed interest in healthier options. But what I have always enjoyed about his cooking is a sense of authenticity that perpetuates each dish—from the house-made pickled mustard leaves that go into a simple vegetable stir-fry to the “secret” sauce that dresses a signature serving of spare ribs. His approach to flavouring is seldom shy but reliably measured, and is still a joy to behold. I am always willing to pair my meals with my favourite wines, and because the restaurant has boldly opted not to charge corkage, I think I will be doing just that from now on.