REFINING AN ICON

The Calatrava continued to evolve over the decades. Here is a list of the most significant models in its history

Ref 565 and Ref 570 (1938)

The original Ref 96 measured only 31mm in diameter, which was small even for its time, so Patek Philippe brought out the Refs 565 and 570 (pictured) to broaden the collection’s appeal. Identical to the Ref 96 in aesthetics, these watches featured larger 35.5mm cases and would have been considered oversized for that era. The Ref 570 was largely produced in precious metals. The Ref 565, on the other hand, was intended to be a more practical model, and was constructed mainly in steel. It also had both the bezel and lugs integrated into the case for a smoother design, and was the first large water-resistant Calatrava thanks to its screw-down caseback. Its soft iron inner case also provided better resistance to magnetic fields.

Ref 2526 (1953)

This was one of the first automatic wristwatches from Patek Philippe. Its screw-back case measured 36mm and it featured an enamel dial, a rounded convex bezel and housed the calibre 12-600AT, the watchmaker’s first automatic movement introduced at a time when self-winding was not the norm. The calibre was equipped with Gyromax balance wheel, one of the first brands to do so since the technology was only patented in 1952. Patek Philippe was so confident in its accuracy that brochures apparently stated that it should have a maximum variance of 1sec per day, long before the advent of CNC machinery and computer-aided tools.

Ref 3520 (1973)

In the same year the Ref 96 was discontinued, the Calatrava took on a new guise. The Ref 3520 (pictured) introduced a new bezel decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche or hobnail pattern. While the decorative bezel represented a deviation from the collection’s Bauhaus roots, the watch was still stunning and proved so appealing that it has become synonymous with the Calatrava. It also featured the manual-winding calibre 177, which is still in production today, in the form of the updated Refs 5116 and 5119.