The proliferation of synthetic diamonds and their possible appeal

Diamonds are a girl’s best friend—so ladies, you should know your BFF inside out. Nicolette Wong reports on the proliferation of synthetic diamonds and their possible appeal

valuating the value of a diamond is all about the four Cs, right? Cut, colour, clarity and carat—but there might be one more C to evaluate very soon: creation. Most of the diamonds on jewellery pieces were created deep within the earth’s mantle and brought to the surface by deep-source volcanic eruptions, although some can also form at subduction zones where two of the earth’s tectonic plates meet. These are examples of natural diamonds, whose creation is left up to the caprices of Mother Nature. Today, however, there exists another type of diamond, which instead of requiring millions of years to form, takes at most just a few weeks. Synthetically grown in a laboratory, this diamond is chemically and visually indistinguishable from a natural diamond— because it is, in fact, the same substance. Real diamonds, whether lab-grown or natural, are primarily made of carbon (and a few trace elements). This is unlike simulated diamonds such as cubic zirconia, which is made of zirconium dioxide. Creating synthetic diamonds has actually been possible since the 1950s, when a method called High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) simulated the natural conditions under which diamonds form in the earth’s mantle. Although the method was a success, HPHT synthetic diamonds are generally dull and dark in colour, making them suitable only for industrial purposes. In more recent years, however, growers have become more successful at producing colourless diamonds—even ones over 10 carats. The second and newer way of synthesising diamonds is using carbon vapour deposition (CVD), which involves carbon-containing gases (such as methane) being injected into a vacuum chamber that has a tiny seed diamond inside. A source of energy (such as microwaves) then breaks the gases down into primary elements, and the carbon that was in these gases will begin to crystallise on the seed diamond, allowing it to grow to a significant size. It is easier to produce colourless diamonds with CVD, and the inclusion of specific gases such as boron or nitrogen creates coloured diamonds, including those in hues of yellow, pink-orange, or blue. Incidentally, Singapore is home to one of the world’s largest CVD diamond production facilities—it belongs to IIA Technologies, which produces diamonds for both industrial and jewellery purposes; the latter retails under the brand Pure Grown Diamonds. Given that synthetic diamonds—and CVD ones in particular—are almost completely identical to natural diamonds, how do you tell them apart? Although some synthetics can be identified by trained gemmologists, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has stated that the most reliable way to identify a synthetic diamond is by using specific scientific instruments. Lab-grown diamonds have specific patterns of fluorescence and growth that can be detected using imaging tools. To a normal consumer, however, even one who is knowledgeable about diamonds, differentiating between a natural and synthetic diamond is near impossible. That is why diamonds should only be purchased from a trusted source. The second question that arises is who would even want to buy synthetic diamonds? The appeal is twofold. Natural diamonds must of course be mined from the earth, a process that leaves an impact on the environment and may involve human rights violations. Neither of these is a concern in the production of synthetic diamonds, which is why consumers who prize environmental sustainability and social responsibility may find them appealing.

Some legacy diamond brands are, however, hoping to combat the perception that natural diamonds are connected to unsavoury practices. Tiffany & Co, for example, launched its new Diamond Source Initiative in January. The company has already taken steps to ensure that its sourcing of diamonds is strict and responsible, with standards that exceed the widely-touted but inadequately stringent Kimberley Process. The new initiative means that now the consumer can identify exactly where their diamond came from. Tiffany has also promised that it will not source any diamond with an unknown provenance, even if responsible sourcing is assured. The other reason why people may find synthetic diamonds appealing is simply that they are cheaper than natural ones. Estimates peg the price of synthetics to be about 30 per cent cheaper on average for stones of the same size and quality. This price is being further depressed by De Beers, one of the industry’s largest producers of natural diamonds. The company made headlines around the world when it announced in May last year that it would begin to produce synthetic diamonds. As the old adage goes—if you cannot beat them, join them. De Beers’ synthetic diamonds are now retailing under the brand name Lightbox, which launched in November last year. A one-carat diamond (minus setting) costs only US$800. By entering the synthetic diamond market, De Beers is doing what it does best— controlling the diamond market. Lightbox is targeted at people who would want to wear diamonds as a fashion statement or just for fun as costume jewellery. Its branding is a deliberate departure from a diamond’s normal portrayal as a rare commodity, one whose scarcity imbues it with deeper meaning. The message is quite clear—a Lightbox diamond, or indeed any synthetic diamonds not meant for engagements, or significant milestones. So the question now is: would you buy a synthetic diamond?