Raw Finish

The Urwerk UR-105 CT Maverick is made for the bold horophile, who wants a watch with its own character—it leaves the brand’s workshops “unfinished”, so that its owner can give it the final flourish, as Tan Wei Lin finds out

The urwerk ur- 105 features an instantly recognisable trademark of the brand—the wandering-hours complication with its iconic satellite hours indication. There have been fine examples of this hyper-technical Urwerk signature over the years. Most recently, we saw the UR-105 CT Kryptonite, a matte-black model with luminous green Superluminova hour markers. And before that, there was the UR-105 CT Streamliner inspired by the art-deco design influences in New York, a city that had played a key role in the brand’s establishment in 1997. This year’s new extension to the line, however, switches up the game in an unprecedented way: the UR-105 CT Maverick is a watch that, according to Urwerk co-founder and chief designer Martin Frei, “leaves our workshops in the raw”—the finish of each of the 22 pieces available can only be completed by its eventual owner. Allow us to explain this unusual feature (or, shall we say, lack thereof ). The Maverick’s case is crafted out of titanium with the bezel made of bronze, a copper alloy, which means it is transformational and will continue to change or take on a patina over time. In other words, the watch is delivered into the owner’s hands as a blank canvas, ready to be drawn with the marks of his lifestyle and take on a unique character. But that doesn’t mean that the integrity or quality of its construction is in any way compromised—it is built to withstand the metamorphosis of its extraordinary finish. Heat, cold, humidity and other environmental factors, as well as the rigours of everyday wear, only serve to enhance its looks. Think of the Maverick as the watch equivalent of a fine bag made out of unfinished leather, designed to acquire personality with use and eventually gaining a one-of-a-kind appearance. Aesthetic and material highlights aside, the Maverick also houses notable internal enhancements. Push the sliding tab on the top and the shield-like cover flips open to reveal

the satellite hours on the four arms of a new openworked carousel. Each satellite carries three numbers that turn to present the right hour when the satellite appears along the track of 60 minutes. “The UR-105 CT is a watch with an evolving style,” says Urwerk co-founder and head watchmaker Felix Baumgartner. “When shut, it is extremely plain, only the hour is visible. It looks supremely self-sufficient. Open it and you enter a very metallic scene. It’s quite cold. You catch a sense of speed, an effort at efficiency. The carousel has been completely redesigned to be ultra-light, ultra-strong and totally effective.” Also, the rotation of the carousel is smoother, quieter and more efficient now, thanks to the design enhancements Urwerk employed. “In our previous models, the satellites were mounted on Maltese crosses and held on top by an orbiting cross,” explains Baumgartner. “We have re-examined the design and found ways to improve it. You can feel the result when you set the time— no friction, no clicks, just the waltz of the satellites. Our work is hidden in the flow of the transmission through the gears.” Elsewhere on the Maverick, you will find features inherited from previous UR-105 CT models. The other dial indications include the power reserve and digital seconds indicators, of which the latter can remarkably point out the tenths of a second—thanks to a photolithographic process that skeletonises each seconds marker to weigh less than a tenth of a gram. On the back, two turbines govern the automatic winding system—they can be adjusted by a lever to provide the wearer with control over the winding action. Activate it when necessary or dampen it to apply lesser tension on the mainspring. A work of technical prowess and intriguing aesthetics, the UR-105 CT Maverick is a creation for the individual, who shares its bold, unpredictable and rule-breaking personality.