An icon closely linked to Chaumet, the tiara took centre stage in the Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 exhibition.
Chaumet’s recent large-scale exhibition in Monaco was a demonstration of its elegant and timeless designs that reflect its rich legacy and links with the French royal court
The tiara, an icon close to the heart of French jeweller Chaumet, was the star of the recent Chaumet in Majesty. Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 exhibition held in Monaco from July 12 to August 28. While looking for interesting pieces to add to the plethora of tiaras and jewels from the brand’s archives, Chaumet heritage director, Claire Gannet, and her team discovered a good number of rare creations owned by private collectors as well as the stories behind some of them.
When we met in Monaco ahead of the exhibition’s public opening, Gannet revealed that the brand had managed to loan pieces from “more than 57 private sources from all over the world, including owners from Europe, Asia and Australia”. More importantly, “we found new treasures for future exhibitions”, she enthused, recalling how a multitude of these pieces were not known to her or the brand.
“We discovered old family pieces, which have been kept in the safe. The family would tell us that they have this beautiful tiara in their possession but nobody wears it anymore. Then, during the viewing, we realise the piece can be worn either as a tiara or a necklace, and the family had absolutely no idea that it was possible.”
She noted that the discovery of many of these creations was serendipitous. “There were many instances when we would come across wonderful pieces purely by chance. We could be having tea with one of our private donors, and she would comment that one of her aunts is a big fan of Chaumet,” said Gannet. “The next thing we know, when we meet that aunt, she would be showing us a beautiful tiara that would come as a big surprise to us because no one at the brand is aware of its existence.”
However, not every tiara that was discovered received the nod from the team as they adhered to a set of strict guidelines when deciding if a bejewelled creation should be added to the exhibition line-up. “Of course, the pieces had to showcase beauty and Chaumet’s creativity, and be representative of certain periods in history. The story of the tiara, in itself, had to be captivating.”
Held at the Grimaldi Forum, the extensive exhibition showcased 250 items with interesting stories behind them, complemented by exquisite pieces of art and exceptional sovereign jewels. Under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco, the event was curated with the help of French‑luxembourger media and cultural figure, Stéphane Bern, and French jewellery historian and co‑author of Royal Jewels: From Charlemagne to the Romanovs, Christophe Vachaudez—both specialists in the French royal courts.
CHOICE LOCATION
The links between Monaco, the sovereign city-state on the French Riviera, and Chaumet may not seem obvious at first, but their ties are almost inextricable. Monaco is one of the last few monarchies in the world while the French jeweller
is one of the most well-known maisons that produces crowns and tiaras.
“The project was set in motion two to three years ago in order to find a location that has meaning and makes sense,” explained Chaumet CEO Jean‑marc Mansvelt. The principality was the third city chosen by Chaumet to stage its large-scale jewellery exhibitions, after Beijing in 2017 and Tokyo the year after. “We create a shortlist of possible cities and then approach their authorities for dialogue. After which, some of them will be dropped from our list for one reason or another.”
After much deliberation, Monaco was eventually chosen to stage the exhibition. “This is the year of transformation for Monaco, which coincides with Chaumet becoming more visible in terms of communications,” said Mansvelt, referring to the monumental plans that the monarchy has unveiled to modernise and revive its cityscape, including the building of new mega mixed-use complexes as well as an ongoing project to reclaim 15 acres of land from the sea. “The country is really remarkable. It boasts a long history and is a place of tradition—exactly like Chaumet, which has nearly 250 years of history.”
TELLING STORIES
At the exhibition, visitors also discovered how Chaumet founder Marie-étienne Nitot became the official jeweller to French emperor Napoleon I in 1802, and subsequently crafted ceremonial jewels and tiaras for the ruler’s wife,
Empress Joséphine. While many of the pieces were crafted centuries ago, they would not look out of place in today’s context. Such is the timelessness of the maison’s creations that they have transcended trends and time itself.
“The exhibition is about letting people know that at Chaumet, everything is authentic,” remarked Mansvelt. The bejewelled exhibits, together with the complementary artworks and citations, painted a vivid picture of life in the French royal court under the rule of Napoleon I—the ruler, leaders and subjects all acted in a certain sophisticated manner, held themselves with a specific decorum and led a life of opulence and luxury too.
“These days, the younger generation wants authenticity in a brand. With this exhibition, we want to show them who we are and what we stand for.”
Besides showcasing its heritage and legacy, the exhibition also strengthened Chaumet’s global presence. After all, the jewellery landscape has become highly competitive in recent years, with many houses aggressively promoting themselves through various activities and initiatives. Chaumet boasts a strong presence across Europe and Asia, particularly in China, but Mansvelt is also aware of the threat the brand’s friendly rivals pose. However, he is not worried. “Competition is good. If there are only two or three actors in a play, then it won’t be interesting,” he quips. “We will continue to stay true to our values, and in the future, Chaumet will strive to be even more visible.”