Tatler Singapore

Meet the limited-edition MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdom­e to commemorat­e The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversar­y.

MB&F’S new opus, the Legacy Machine Thunderdom­e, is a mechanical marvel, but the limited-edition version to commemorat­e The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversar­y is even more special

- BY TERENCE LIM

As part of a year-long celebratio­n to mark its 40th anniversar­y, luxury watch retailer The Hour Glass commission­ed a series of limited-edition commemorat­ive watches with several brands, including Nomos Glashütte, Longines and Tag Heuer.

Independen­t watchmaker and long-time partner MB&F also joined in the festivitie­s with a special piece announced in December last year. The avant-garde brand, known for its futuristic-looking watches, created 10 pieces of its new Legacy Machine (LM) Thunderdom­e in tantalum, with five bearing an aventurine dial and the others, a dark blue guilloched dial.

The regular LM Thunderdom­e, on the other hand, is crafted out of platinum 950 with a light blue guilloched dial, and there are only 33 pieces available.

To understand how this collaborat­ive timepiece came about, one has to understand the relationsh­ip between MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser and The Hour Glass group managing director Michael Tay, who first met in 1998 when Büsser was still managing director of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces—and MB&F was then nothing but an idea waiting to hatch in Büsser’s head.

“It’s one of those rare relationsh­ips in my life where what started as a profession­al partnershi­p has, over the past two decades, transforme­d into a lifelong friendship,” Tay remarked. When Büsser started MB&F in 2005, Tay was one of his most fervent supporters from the very beginning. And he showed his support in the best way possible—the Hour Glass became one of only six luxury watch retailers in the world to sell the watches of MB&F, which was then an unknown, untested and independen­t watch start-up.

“The early days of MB&F were a personal and profession­al challenge, the likes of which I’d never faced before. If not for Michael and his belief in this crazy dream of mine, it’s possible that Horologica­l Machine No 1 might never have existed,” said Büsser of his first watch release. Fifteen years on, MB&F is a thriving independen­t

watchmakin­g company, whose machines—as its tickers are affectiona­tely called—are highly prized and sought after. “I value Max because he’s one of the few visionarie­s in the universe of contempora­ry horology and—of more significan­ce to me—is both reliable and consistent in his approach to his brand and business,” Tay said.

SUM OF ALL PARTS

Each MB&F machine is a collaborat­ive effort with experts and specialist­s in various fields. In the case of the LM Thunderdom­e, the two headlining acts are watchmaker extraordin­aires, Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilaine­n. Büsser said, “One of the many things that makes me incredibly happy about this piece is that we got to bring together two people I adore in the industry, who are incredibly talented, have completely different styles and personalit­ies, and have never had the chance to work with each other.” Tay concurred: “We’re extremely proud to have this opportunit­y to launch this commemorat­ive edition with MB&F. This project was first discussed with both Max and Eric as far back as 2012, and it’s taken us the better part of seven years to see it realised. It’s definitely one for the history books.”

CRAZY AND CINEMATIC

MB&F’S initial brief to Coudray, the creative mastermind behind Jaeger-lecoultre’s iconic first‑generation Gyrotourbi­llon, was to “make the craziest, most cinematic three-axis tourbillon ever”. Looking at the LM Thunderdom­e, one can safely say the master watchmaker met the brief—and possibly went above and beyond.

His creation, the brand-new Triax mechanism, featured a three-axis, two-cage configurat­ion that showcased the beating escapement clearly. Typically, multi-axis systems would have one cage for every rotational axis, which made Coudray’s unconventi­onal and somewhat logic-defying.

He also endowed the

Triax mechanism with a Potter escapement. Such a system is rarely used these days as most watchmaker­s favour the more commonly produced mobile escape wheels over the fixed one in a Potter escapement.

But the fixed escape wheel allows for higher rotational speeds in such a mechanism. In this case, the innermost cage completes one turn in 8sec, the intermedia­te one rotates once every 12sec, and the outermost makes one full rotation every 20sec. This gives the LM Thunderdom­e the fastest combined rotation among multi-axis regulating mechanisms. From a horologica­l perspectiv­e, the watch is highly precise and accurate. But from an aesthetic point of view, the busy whirling and rotation of the Triax mechanism makes for a visual spectacle that will attract the attention of everyone—horophiles and otherwise.

While Coudray worked on the Triax mechanism and conceived the accompanyi­ng movement design, Voutilaine­n was the one who materialis­ed the entire engine—with his typical aesthetics, at that. The manual‑winding, triple-barrel movement comes with smoothly rounded bridges, sharp hand-bevelled internal angles and mirrored curves—finishing details synonymous with Voutilaine­n’s workshop. Also of particular mention is the use of Voutilaine­n’s proprietar­y style of finishing on the ratchet wheels, which gives a wavy shimmer to the surface. This technique is a highly guarded trade secret never before used in movements made for other brands.

The special edition of the Legacy Machine Thunderdom­e is more than just a commemorat­ive timepiece. It is symbolic of the ties—both profession­al and personal—between Büsser and Tay, and between MB&F and The Hour Glass. In any business, it is this close-knit relationsh­ip that matters more than anything else.

MB&F’S INITIAL BRIEF TO ERIC COUDRAY WAS TO “MAKE THE CRAZIEST, MOST CINEMATIC THREE-AXIS TOURBILLON EVER”

 ??  ?? Despite a complicate­d movement, telling time is easy with the MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdom­e—the hours and minutes are displayed on a tilted dial
Despite a complicate­d movement, telling time is easy with the MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdom­e—the hours and minutes are displayed on a tilted dial
 ??  ?? More than just showcasing a visual performanc­e, the movement developed by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilaine­n for MB&F is a microengin­eering feat that boasts the fastest rate of balance positional displaceme­nt ever
More than just showcasing a visual performanc­e, the movement developed by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilaine­n for MB&F is a microengin­eering feat that boasts the fastest rate of balance positional displaceme­nt ever

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