Call Me Old Fashioned
Jewellers who are upcycling family heirlooms and heritage creations
Repurposing old jewellery has been the bread and butter of goldsmiths and gem dealers for centuries, but it’s fast becoming a growing trend with a new spin. As consumers grow more conscious about the environmental and ethical impact of their purchases, a practice that may have existed for centuries is now more sought-after than ever. From the simple resizing of an engagement ring to the resetting of gems from a Georgian hairpin, the range of possibilities is endless. And as sustainability becomes a way of life, we’re seeing designers rescue unloved sparklers from dusty draws and seldom-visited vaults.
It’s possible to breathe new life into old pieces by recasting gems into new settings, says Hong Kong-based jewellery designer Sarah Zhuang. This involves melting down and reshaping precious metals into stylish silhouettes that are often bespoke. “People tend to own heritage jewellery that’s been passed down to them from previous generations,” Zhuang tells me. “These pieces can be very simple and traditional and often end up in a safe.” Diamonds, she says, are meant to be worn, not locked away. “It’s such a waste.”
Alisa Moussaieff, who is head of the family gem and jewellery business Moussaieff Jewellers, recalls redesigning a classical jewellery suite. “A client came to us with earrings and bracelets that she no longer wore, so we took the gemstones and used them to create one powerful necklace.” On that necklace, numerous strands of Burmese rubies pop against white diamonds that flash with a searing sparkle. Another woman asked for help with a piece she wanted to give as a gift to her future daughter
in-law. “It was a very high-profile wedding,” the jeweller recalls, “with numerous high-profile personalities, including eastern royalty and dignitaries.”
“It seems to me that wanting to recycle, to give things a longer life and to move away from disposable culture plays a part in this move towards remodelled jewellery,” says Josina von dem Bussche-kessell, Fabergé’s global sales director. The process, however, isn’t always smooth sailing. Problems can be uncovered, like a crack that was hidden until the gem was removed from its setting. “When we make a new piece from scratch, we know exactly where the components come from. When we take in pieces which we have no knowledge of, we are essentially dealing with an unknown and this can unnerve our craftsmen and women.” But why should this put us off? “People want something that’s unique and different,” says Zhuang. “Remodelling heritage jewellery is special because it has meaning that’s understood only by the wearer.” She has noticed an increased interest in transformable designs. “People want to make their jewellery more versatile and functional. They want a ring that can also be transformed into a necklace, or a pendant that can be worn as a brooch. They want to make the most out of their jewellery and be able to wear it to many different occasions.”
And for good reason. Not only can jewellery be expensive, many of its materials are simply not sustainable, which is one reason why lab-grown diamonds are a rapidly growing trend in the industry. Chemically, physically and optically identical to mined diamonds, they are also created using extreme pressure and heat, but inside a machine rather than Earth. And while traditionalists tell us it’s impossible to beat the real thing—natural diamonds do, after all, take millions of years to develop—there’s little point waiting around for the next batch: Mother Earth has passed her sell-by date. Our planet’s composition, seismic waves and other bits and bobs simply don’t perform like they used to.
I’m happy, however, to report that it’s not all doom and gloom. Gemstone deposits are still being discovered. In 2018, geologists reported discovering a quadrillion tons of diamonds beneath Earth’s surface, although they’ve yet to find a way to mine them. Located between 150 and 240 kilometres below ground, they’re evading capture while we create a machine that can drill to that never-beforeseen depth.
“It seems to me that wanting to recycle and to move away from disposable culture plays a part in this move towards remodelled jewellery” —JOSINA VON DEM BUSSCHE-KESSELL