Jewellery Report
The latest in jewellery
CLASSICAL FORM
De Beers has added four white gold jewellery pieces to its captivating Arpeggia collection, which is inspired by Beethoven’s famous composition Moonlight Sonata. The line’s transformable choker is particularly breathtaking. Mounted with diamonds, which total more than 5.8 carats, it can also be worn as a headband.
GONE FISHIN’
Jean Schlumberger’s distinctive design aesthetic has long inspired Tiffany & Co’s high jewellery, and now the brand further celebrates the late jeweller’s fascination with the natural world through a roster of innovative and expressive pieces. Ribbons of gold thread and clutches of coloured gemstones set these new one-of-a-kind creations apart. Especially notable is the line’s playful fish-shaped clip brooch, which is sculpted from yellow gold and comes with polished scales set with tsavorites and shimmering turquoise.
DARE TO BLOOM
Hong Kong jeweller Forms’ latest bespoke ring showcases a spectacular Burmese sugarloafcut pigeon’s blood ruby, which is encased by four rounded petals cut from lavendertinged chalcedonies. These almost-translucent gems are additionally elevated by thin bands of white gold set with melee diamonds.
FEATHERWEIGHT
The newest high jewellery collection by Piaget, Wings of Light, is all about colour. Shades of navy-blue fade into exotic green, red and yellow, while feather plumes are replicated using handfuls of multicoloured sapphires, tourmalines and diamonds. The Natural Harmony necklace is a signature look that combines slick slices of white gold with blocks of glistening emeralds.
RUBY REVOLUTION
Known as the “king of gems”, rubies are often relegated to second place behind the dazzle of diamonds, despite being rarer and more precious. Formed some 450 to
750 million years ago, the Mozambique rubies that adorn Gübelin’s new Blushing Beauty chandelier earrings are among the world’s highest-quality gemstones. An oval-cut pair helps secure each piece onto the wearer’s ear and, on their own, the stones weigh 3.10 and 30.5 carats.
BEE MINE
American designer Deborah Pagani has launched several new ring designs that showcase the brand’s signature honey motif. Domed rows of thick yellow gold are stacked together and secure various gemstones that have been repurposed from heirloom jewellery.
AU NATUREL
Cartier’s Tillandsia necklace from its [Sur]naturel high jewellery collection features a pair of oval beryls that weighs 83.23 carats and 81.09 carats, respectively, positioned diagonally side by side. The designers at Cartier cleverly combined the beryls with diamonds and rutilated quartz stones to create an impressive centrepiece, which explains why the necklace is one of the more outstanding pieces in the collection. “This necklace features an exceptional pair of oval-shaped beryls enhanced by the artisans so that they appear to float above a diamond lattice,” says Jacqueline Karachi-langane, director of Cartier’s High Jewellery Creation Studio. “Mastering transparency is a creative and technical challenge; the designer and jeweller turn it into a strength so as to showcase the structure of the jewel, which becomes ethereal and graphic.”
STATE OF WONDER
The Amazon’s towering trees, flooded forests and multicoloured wildlife are what inspired American jeweller Emily P Wheeler’s La Selva collection, which she refined while daydreaming in her hometown of Los Angeles during last year’s numerous Covid-19 lockdowns. The Painted Desert earrings use carefully hand-carved petrified wood, which playfully contrasts with plump pink tourmalines that are framed by white diamonds.
NATURAL BEAUTY
Unconventional, innovative and elegant, several oneof-a-kind high jewellery earrings, rings and bracelets have been unveiled by Melanie Georgacopoulos as part of the brand’s new Carats collection. Smatterings of diamonds and mother-of-pearl take centre stage, as do natural pearls, which are being used by the Greek fine jewellery designer for the very first time.
SHAKE IT OFF
New York-based jewellery designer Moritz Glik’s Kaleidoscope Shakers line sandwiches gemstones between sheets of colourless sapphire. Entertaining as well as eye-catching, this collection is casual enough for daily wear but is perfect for special occasions too.
TAKE FLIGHT
When it comes to pearls, Mikimoto is one of the world’s most respected jewellers. For its latest high jewellery collection, the brand has shone the spotlight on the humble feather, which is sculpted from white gold and set with pearls and diamonds. Choose from a variety of necklaces, earrings, rings and brooches, all of which will elevate even the simplest of outfits.
GOOD LUCK
Four new long necklaces have been added to Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature Alhambra collection. To celebrate, the maison has collaborated with French fashion industry icon Carine Roitfeld for a stunning series of photographs that show how best to style these timeless pieces. Jacques Arpels, the nephew of Estelle Arpels, who was one of the brand’s two founders, famously believed in luck, which is why charms have played an important part in Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs since the 1920s. For Alhambra, a four-leaf clover takes centre stage and comes set with various hard stones including malachite and lapis lazuli.