OCEAN FRESH

Summer is a season that Yoshio Sakuta, the head chef of Sushi Kou, always looks forward to because of the plethora of seafood that will star in his ever-changing omakase menus. One of these is shinko, or young gizzard shad, which he shares is “one of the tastiest early summer treats” available only for three to four weeks from July. “Shinko has a light and refreshing taste and is not fishy at all,” explains Sakuta, who often uses it in his sushi courses whenever he can get his hands on them. He gently washes the delicate fish, which is about 3 cm to 4 cm long, with vinegar and lightly seasons it with salt. Multiple strips are then stacked atop morsels of shari, or sushi rice soaked in two types of vinegar, and finished with a touch of freshly grated wasabi to boost the umami flavours.