Retirement Nixed

Nyx founder Toni Ko talks to Doris Lam about her latest venture

In the 2000s, Toni Ko’s affordable make-up brand, Nyx Professional Makeup, became known for its jumbo eye pencils, liquid lipsticks and roll-on eyeshadows. Having sold the brand to L’oréal in 2014, the Los Angeles-based entrepreneur launched Bespoke Beauty Brands in 2019, a company that helps personalities create their own line of beauty products. Here, Ko talks about Bespoke Beauty Brand’s latest project, male grooming, Covid-19 and life after Nyx.

Tell me about your newest project, Mai Johnson & Company.

Mai Johnson is Bespoke Beauty Brand’s newest line that’s going to be a trailblazer for all things in the men’s beauty space. We just launched in August. The collection includes a full suite of products designed to address dryness, cleanliness and skincare.

More and more men are open to using (and admitting to using) skincare and make-up. Why do you think this is so?

The concept of make-up for men has been around for many years, but it has always been very limited to “guyliner” or black nail polish. Men have worn make-up throughout history and I believe they are ripe to explore more than just eyeliner or nail polish. Male grooming is one of the fastest-growing categories in the beauty industry at the moment and I’m very excited to enter the space.

Bespoke Beauty Brands has helped people from all backgrounds launch beauty collections. However, a majority of your clients are famous Asian personalities, such as drag queen Kim Chi and designer Jason Wu. Are Asian Americans your primary clientele? Not necessarily. [But] I happened to work with [Kim Chi’s make-up brand] Kimchi Chic Beauty a few years ago and immediately felt a very strong bond. I think it’s the bond of our Asian heritage. Most of our meetings are over Korean BBQ and hot pot! Now that I think about it, my first meeting with Jason Wu was also over Korean BBQ, so it’s safe to say the Asian bond is strong.

After selling Nyx to L’oréal, did you know that you wanted to re-enter the beauty industry?

I did not! I really thought I was going to retire and sit on the beach sipping a big margarita. As you can see, that didn’t happen.

What are your top three beauty must-haves?

La Mer cream, Acqua di Gio perfume and Clé de Peau Beauté body cream.