SILAS WALTON
The pre-owned market is coming of age, says the CEO and founder of London-based dealer A Collected Man
Tell us about your most treasured watch.
My 18th birthday present was my great great grandfather’s pocket watch. The very first thing I bought and sold was also a pocket watch; I bought it at a flea market in France when I was about 13 or 14, and later sold it on ebay.
It sounds like you’ve always had a passion for watches.
I kind of had an unofficial background in watches, but I didn’t consider myself a “watch guy”. I just saw how things were changing in the luxury market and discovered that there was nothing particularly sophisticated for second-hand watch buyers and sellers online.
How has this changed over the years?
It has changed radically. The industry has been led by a number of transformation actors such as Chrono24 and Watchfinder & Co, but also by the fact that in North America and Southeast Asia, there’s an increased degree of comfort with online transactions and distant selling that has now spread globally. The market had historically been resistant to e-commerce, but now, there’s a general acceptance that you’re reasonably protected against fraud provided you act carefully.
Would you agree that more collectors are willing to buy luxury watches via social media?
Yes; it has been incredible. Instagram has been the most important social media channel for us. We’ve never spent on advertising; everything has been organic and direct. We typically put a watch up on Instagram and, I’d say within half an hour, it’s usually sold. Some people don’t believe that we don’t pre-sell our items, but we really don’t. We never pre-sell. Everything is listed and available the moment it goes up.
Is there a lack of transparency in the second‑hand watch market?
Oh, 100 per cent. This was our biggest advantage at A Collected Man. The market is kind of cowboy-ish and we added an element of professionalism that’s traditionally seen in other second-hand markets.
Do you predict that more and more watch collectors will buy online?
I contributed to a Mckinsey report recently about how the luxury watch market has been and is being transformed. They were saying that between now and 2025, online direct-to-consumer is the fastest-growing segment. This is happening in parallel with the pre-owned watch market, which is just booming. It’s worth about US$19 billion and they estimate that soon, it’ll be worth about US$32 billion.
What watch trends should we keep an eye on?
The demand for independents has skyrocketed. It’s just booming. It’s niche and what we specialise in.
What’s the biggest misconception about buying pre‑owned watches?
That collectors run a risk buying a watch that can’t be serviced. Or that somehow, there’s negativity associated with wearing used pieces. In fact, the opposite is true.