The elegance of time
Rolex wows with a collection that is a continuation of its endless pursuit of excellence
Over the years, Rolex has remained committed to perfecting every component, questioning every method, and mastering every aspect of watchmaking expertise. This dedication is evident in the 2023 collection unveiled at the Watches and Wonders fair in March in Geneva. Despite launching new iterations, Rolex has maintained a sense of continuity, innovating while staying true to tradition and leveraging technology to push boundaries. All Rolex timepieces featured in this collection carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, which guarantees exceptional performance.
Here is a look at these much-loved iconic pieces.
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Three new variants of the Day-Date 36 garnered the most attention and were perhaps the most photographed timepieces. It was a lovely surprise to see such a colourful dial crafted entirely from 18-ct yellow, white, or Everose gold from Rolex. The dial was created using champlevé enamelling, giving the depth and intensity of the colour, with a motif inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. Turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green, and yellow pieces fit together on a single-colour background, resulting in a stunning and eyecatching design.
To give the watch more of a personality, the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock displays inspirational words such as “Happy”, “Eternity”, “Gratitude”, “Peace”, “Faith”, “Love” and “Hope”. At the 3 o’clock position, you will see a different emoji every day. How fun is that?
The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with calibre 3255, a movement that displays a special keyword each day of the week and an individual emoji each day of the month, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial, which is turquoise blue on the 18-ct yellow gold and 18-ct white gold versions, and orange on the watch in 18-ct Everose gold.
The Day-Date was launched in 1956 and was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelled out in full in an arcshaped window at 12 o’clock on the dial — a technical feat at the time. The day of the week is available in a choice of 26 languages. Watches in the Day-Date range are made only of precious metals — 18-ct yellow, white, or Everose gold, or 950 platinum.
The Day-Date has been worn by numerous political figures, directors, and visionaries around the world, and is instantly recognisable. This is due in part to its iconic President bracelet, which, along with the eminent individuals who have worn it, has earned the Day-Date the moniker of the “presidents’ watch”.
Oyster Perpetual
The Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36, and Oyster Perpetual 41 now feature a brand-new motif called “Celebration” that exudes fun with its colourful decoration. The lacquered dials of these timepieces are adorned with vibrant, multi-coloured bubbles fringed with black, capturing the vivid colours of the lacquered dials introduced in 2020, including candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green.
The Oyster Perpetual 31 is powered by calibre 2232, while the
Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 are both equipped with calibre 3230, making them reliable and accurate timepieces. Calibre 2232 is fitted with a Syloxi hairspring that is produced by
Rolex and patented. This silicon hairspring has a patented geometry that ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position. The movement also contains a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel.
Calibre 3230 is a high-end movement that incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement. This escapement is made of nickel-phosphorus, which makes it highly resistant to strong magnetic fields. It is also energy-efficient and reliable, which ensures the accuracy and precision of the watch. Calibre 3230 is equipped with a blue Parachrom hairspring. To ensure the regularity of the calibre in any position, the hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil. This feature ensures the movement’s accuracy and precision, making it a reliable timepiece.
Finally, the oscillating weight of the movement is now fitted with an optimised ball bearing, which further enhances the movement’s performance. Overall, calibre 3230 is a highly advanced and reliable movement that offers exceptional accuracy and precision, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts.
The new versions of the Rolex watch feature the Oyster case, which is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, which is known for its excellent resistance to corrosion and its durability. The caseback of the watch is edged with fine fluting and is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. This ensures the watch’s optimal protection against water, dust, and other external elements.
The Twinlock winding crown of the watch is fitted with a double waterproofness system and screws down securely against the case, making it highly resistant to water ingress. Additionally, the crystal of the watch is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating, which ensures excellent readability of the dial even in bright sunlight.
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
The timepiece’s two time zones and annual Saros calendar have long been a favourite among intrepid travellers. It displays the time in two time zones simultaneously and has an annual calendar. The reference time is displayed in 24-hour format via an off-centre disc, and local time is read using the conventional centre hands.
The annual calendar, named Saros, automatically differentiates between 30- and 31-day months. It is operated by a patented mechanism and stands out for its innovative display: the months of the year are shown in 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial, beyond the index hour marker — the current month being shown in red. The instantaneous date change is linked to the local time.
The new offerings come in an 18-ct white gold version on an Oysterflex bracelet. It is the first time that a version of the Sky-Dweller combines this precious metal, which is returning to the range, with the black elastomer bracelet. The other two variants unveiled introduce two new dial colours for the model. The white Rolesor version
The Cosmograph Daytona was launched in 1963, designed for professional racing drivers with its tachymetric bezel and high-performance mechanical movement. Now, 60 years later, the new-generation Cosmograph Daytona has been introduced with some subtle changes.
The dial has been redesigned to achieve a new graphic balance, while harmonious colour combinations accentuate the contrast between the dial and the counters, or their rings. The Oyster case has been given a facelift, and the profile is emphasised by the light reflections on the lugs and case sides. For versions with a Cerachrom bezel, the bezel is surrounded by a thin band of the same metal as the middle case. These updates result in a refined and elegant timepiece that still maintains its sporty origins.
In the new Cosmograph Daytona, the watches are equipped with calibre 4131 and incorporate a number of major innovations that Rolex has brought to its movements, including the Chronergy escapement. Aesthetically pleasing is the cut-out oscillating weight and completely new finishes on the bridges, which are embellished with Rolex Côtes de Genève, the brand’s reinterpretation of a well-known decoration in watchmaking.
Calibre 4131 enables the Cosmograph Daytona to measure intervals of time via the chronograph function, in addition to displaying the hours, minutes and seconds. A prestigious and iconic watch, the Cosmograph Daytona in 950 platinum now has a transparent caseback as well as an oscillating weight made of 18-ct yellow gold.
Perpetual 1908
(combining Oystersteel and white gold), fitted on an Oyster bracelet, features a mint green dial, a colour reserved until now for the Datejust. And the variant fashioned in 18-ct Everose gold is endowed with a blue-green dial. A subtle alliance of two tones, the latter is available only on the reference presented, complemented by an Oyster bracelet.
Rolesor is a combination of two metals: one, noble and precious, attractive for its lustre and stability; the other, highly resistant to corrosion, assuring strength and reliability. The new Sky-Dweller comes in white Rolesor version, the bezel in white gold; the winding crown, middle case, caseback and bracelet are in Oystersteel.
The Sky-Dweller houses calibre 9002, which includes the Chronergy escapement. A derivation of calibre 9001, one of the most complex movements designed by Rolex and which had driven the model since its launch in 2012, calibre 9002 delivers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.
Rolex has recently launched its Perpetual collection with the introduction of the Perpetual 1908 timepiece. The name “Perpetual 1908” is a tribute to the year in which Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, devised the name “Rolex” to sign his creations and registered the brand in Switzerland.
The Perpetual 1908 is a modern reinterpretation of traditional watchmaking style, infused with Rolex’s quintessential watchmaking expertise and aesthetic heritage. This timepiece is distinguished by its sleek and simple design, with details that give it a distinct identity.
The Perpetual 1908 embodies the essence of the Perpetual collection, which celebrates the art of watchmaking in its purest form. The watch showcases the brand’s commitment to excellence, precision, and durability, as well as its unparalleled ability to seamlessly blend innovation with tradition.
This watch boasts a sophisticated and minimalist design, featuring a slim case topped with a bezel that’s partially domed and partially fluted. Available in 18-ct yellow or white gold, the case is transparent at the back, offering a view of the movement’s technical excellence and ornate decoration. The dial is sleek and comes in intense white or intense black, with Arabic numerals 3, 9, and 12, and faceted index hour markers. It also includes a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, with the words “Superlative Chronometer” arcing above it. The hour hand has a distinctive circle at its tip, while the minute hand resembles a two-edged sword. The model is completed with a brown or black alligator leather strap and equipped with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp.
The Perpetual 1908 timepiece is powered by calibre 7140, a self-winding mechanical movement that offers exceptional precision, power reserve, convenience, and reliability. The movement showcases meticulously finished aesthetics, particularly on the bridges that feature Rolex Côtes de Genève — a decoration that differs from traditional Côtes de Genève for the slightly polished groove between each band. Calibre 7140 integrates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. The escapement is constructed of nickel-phosphorus, making it resistant to strong magnetic fields.
Calibre 7140 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 7140 extends to approximately 66 hours. The oscillator is mounted on the patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed by the brand, which enhances the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is crafted in 18-ct yellow gold and cut out. Additionally, it is fitted with an optimised ball bearing, enhancing the timepiece’s overall performance.