Couture revival
Australian haute couture designer Tamara Ralph breathes new soul into watchmaking with her interpretation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Quite often, persuading watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs to view the term “fashion” seriously in the realm of watchmaking can be challenging. However, the limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, designed by haute couture designer Tamara Ralph and revealed during Ralph’s runway show at Paris Couture Week in January, has garnered favourable reviews. This exclusive timepiece has prompted many watch lovers to reconsider how fashion and watchmaking can mutually enhance each other.
Born in Sydney, Australia, into a lineage of couturiers (she is the fourth generation in her family to work as a couture designer), Ralph honed her skills under the guidance of her grandmother and mother before relocating to London to pursue her career. She served as the creative director and co-founder of the now-defunct couture house, Ralph & Russo. In 2013, the brand made history as the first British couture house in a century to be invited by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) to show as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale De La Couture during Paris Haute Couture Week. In the world of couture, this is an honour almost only exclusive to what the FHCM considers the cream among fashion designers.
Drawing inspiration from Ralph’s signature blend of bold femininity, limitless creativity, and timeless elegance, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Tamara Ralph” Limited Edition is encased in 18-carat pink gold finished with the Frosted Gold technique — an age-old Florentine craft revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. This technique involves creating tiny indentations on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, evoking the sparkle of precious stones. Audemars Piguet adopted the technique in 2016 for a Royal Oak with its case and bracelet in frosted gold.
With only 102 pieces available, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon “Tamara Ralph” Limited Edition showcases a distinctive array of gradient hues from rich browns to radiant bronzes and golden tones, complemented by volume and texture. The striking surface of the frosted pink gold case contrasts with the polished slope of the bezel, accentuating the watch’s dynamic architecture. Its multi-layered dial features brown, bronze, pink, and yellow gold rings decorated with sunburst finishing, while the tourbillon at 6 o’clock is accentuated with a diamond-set circle and four concentric rings.
Ralph tells us more about her first foray into watch designing.
What emotions does the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak evoke for you, and why?
Speaking to my design specifically, I feel excited that I am able to work with the wonderfully talented team at Audemars Piguet again, this time for a limited edition timepiece, and I feel all the more excited that the timing coincided with the launch of my new, namesake brand. It makes it especially meaningful.
I also feel honoured and grateful for the full trust instilled in me by the team at Audemars Piguet, and for the opportunity to truly push myself as a designer and extend my creativity into other — and entirely new — spheres in terms of design.
In terms of the Royal Oak generally, it is such an iconic design and — for me — it conjures up feelings of appreciation for the true example of craftsmanship behind the piece, and wonder for what is possible when exceptional design meets the intricacies and technicalities demanded by the making of a timepiece.
I love how the Royal Oak has transcended 50 years and still looks modern and iconic. It is an honour to collaborate on this style.
What was your inspiration for the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon Tamara Ralph limited edition?
The core inspiration for this timepiece was the notion of cognac; cognacs are a collection of assemblages representing the finest, most exceptional eaux-de-vie. I mixed metals and materials to create this concept, incorporating the ornate foundation that is symbolic of watchmaking, which can be played with in terms of textures, colours and designs, allowing the savoir-faire of couture to be applied. Rich materials, unique colour palettes and master craftsmanship are combined, creating an exquisite, limited edition of the Flying Tourbillon, inspired by couture. I wanted the design to represent both brands and for the customer to experience excellence at every touchpoint.
In keeping with the inspiration behind the design concept, hues of cognac are brought to life with a combination of shades of gold including 18-carat pink gold and frosted gold, set upon an iridescent metallic alligator strap. This rich colour palette and use of mixed materials evoke a sense of texture with an almost sumptuous, tactile quality. It is sophisticated, elegant and truly timeless, whilst also being incredibly bold and feminine.
What parallels can you draw between haute couture and the technical complexity of high watchmaking?
In working with the Audemars Piguet team on this partnership, I have realised more than ever the many, many similarities between haute couture and high watchmaking.
Like couture, high watchmaking evokes the very same elements of uncompromising craftsmanship, incredible attention to detail and savoir-faire paired with a unique and distinctive design aesthetic. My brand and that of Audemars Piguet are built upon and centred around the same aforementioned pillars. With both of our brands, pieces are individually crafted and created to the highest and most exacting of standards, whilst constantly pushing the boundaries of creativity. We both have a passion for elegance, innovation, and true luxury.
With my couture collection, each individual look is designed to be a piece of art that is cohesive in relation to the wider collection, but that also stands alone and tells its own story. This watch is very much the same.
What affinity do you feel towards Audemars Piguet, and which values do you believe you share with the brand?
Despite being in different spheres, both my brand as well as that of Audemars Piguet are built upon the same pillars of the highest quality, innate craftsmanship and an unwavering commitment to the highest echelon of luxury.
I have enormous admiration for the brand and enjoy working with the team there immensely. It is always an absolute pleasure, and the experience feels very natural and very organic. Being able to collaborate with them on a limited-edition timepiece has only further solidified this feeling.