DARK KNIGHTS STORM INTO THE HOROLOGICAL ARENA, BRANDISHING STEALTHY COATS OF ARMOUR IN THE FORM OF DLC, PVD AND NEWER, HIGH-TECH MATERIALS LIKE BREITLIGHT. YUP – BLACK, ONCE AGAIN, IS THE NEW BLACK.
01 / BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON
Sheathed in a sleek black DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating, Bulgari’s Octo Ultranero collection targets a younger, trendier, sportier clientele, as compared to the regular Octo collection. Crowning the series is the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, a manually wound timepiece with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon, housed in a DLC-coated titanium case just 5mm thick. The three other Octo Ultranero novelties, comprising a chronograph, and two variations of a three-hander with date, come in cases crafted from DLC-coated steel.
02 / TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY DARK
Housed in a black PVD (physical vapour deposition)-treated steel case with matching bracelet or distressed leather strap, this watch boasts the new COSC-certified in-house movement, MT5602, featuring a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. The red triangle on the diving bezel is a throwback to Tudor’s Submariners from the 1950s. On the dial, the Tudor rose has been replaced by the Tudor shield, which we feel is a better, more masculine fit.
03 / BREITLING AVENGER HURRICANE
Despite its militaristic styling and hulking 50mm diameter, Breitling’s Avenger Hurricane is an extreme featherweight, thanks to a new case material developed in-house. Called Breitlight (clearly, the name makes reference to its weight, rather than its colour), this high-tech polymer is reputedly six times lighter than steel, four times lighter than titanium, and harder than either. It is also antimagnetic and hypoallergenic. Calibre B12, the latest variant of Breitling’s base B01 calibre, drives this beast.
04 / CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA GTS AUTOMATIC SPEED BLACK
As with previous Mille Miglia watches, the new GTS Automatic Speed Black is rife with bold, sporty accents. The black DLC-coated steel case and black dial serve as perfect foils to the oversized white numerals and red inflections, such as the race’s official logo at three o’clock, which surrounds the date aperture, and mimics the numbers on the doors and bonnets of competing cars. The strap boasts a 1960s Dunlop racing tyre-tread motif.
05 / MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER EXOTOURBILLON MINUTE CHRONOGRAPH
This timepiece resembles the lovechild of 2015’s Timewalker Urban Speed and Heritage Chronometrie Exotourbillon Minute Chronograph. In fact, it is driven by the same movement as the latter, Calibre MB R230, and hence also has the same functions. But, while the latter sported a classical rose-gold getup, this new model bears the modern city-slicker vibe of the Urban Speed, with its black-and-red colourway. Its case materials are modern, too: titanium, carbon fibre and DLC.