ITALIAN RENAISSANCE

Prada resurrects a pair of 1990s tropes in most timely fashion.

If we had to name two trends that have been defining fashion in recent years, they would be (a) 1990s style, and ( b) that sportyformal blend known as athleisure. Which makes it the perfect time for Italian luxury powerhouse Prada to bring back two of its biggest hits from recent decades – its black nylon accessories, and its Linea Rossa (“red line” in Italian) sportswear line.

Launched within the Fall/ Winter 2018 men’s collection, the “Prada Invites” project kicked off the brand’s resurrection of black nylon. A handful of renowned architects and designers, including Rem Koolhaas and Konstantin Grcic, were asked to design accessories using the material. For Spring/Summer 2019, the brand is extending the project with a female focus. Using the utilitarian material, a trio of female architects have created thoughtful, unusual designs: Elizabeth Diller, for instance, proposes a garment bag that can double as outerwear, as well as a two-pocket “yoke” bag that can be worn across the shoulders, or folded and carried as a clutch.

Striking a much more colourful note are the pieces in the Linea Rossa line, distinguished by a signature red line, as well as sporty form informed by function. Originally launched in 1997 but practically inexistent in the 2000s (save for an eyewear collection), Linea Rossa now makes a comeback as Prada’s answer to the athleisure revolution. This season, high-tech fabrics that are ultralight, abrasion-resistant and/ or temperature-regulating have been used to create performance clothing intended for sports such as skiing and snowboarding. With these winning moves, we think it’s safe to say that Prada is on the right track.